We last visited Rio de Janeiro in 2012, when we toured several South American countries with our son, Evan (https://acroamingtheglobe.com/essence-of-south-america-december-2011). This time, our return to Rio was for a particularly festive family occasion—the wedding of Lysan, our cousin Lyssa’s daughter. We arrived a few days early to revisit some of the places we had enjoyed on our previous visit, while also discovering new sights and experiences. Once again, we were fortunate to have Evan join us, along with other family members and friends who were in Rio to celebrate the wedding.
Our First Day in Rio – September 27, 2026
We took an Uber from West Palm Beach to Miami International Airport to catch our Avianca flight to Rio de Janeiro. The flight, which included a quick plane change in Bogota, was comfortable and uneventful, and we arrived in Rio without incident. Since we arrived early in the morning and couldn’t check into our hotel until 3:00 p.m., we decided to explore Copacabana on foot, grab some coffee, and get a feel for the neighborhood. After coffee, our first stop was the charming neighborhood church Paróquia Nossa Senhora de Copacabana e Santa Rosa de Lima (it was Sunday morning afterall). Afterward, we wandered through the lively Sunday street market in front of the church, browsing the colorful stalls filled with fresh produce, flowers, handicrafts, and local foods. Eventually, we made our way back to the hotel and checked in. The hotel was very crowded, with lots of Dallas Cowboys and Baltimore Ravens fans completely kitted out to cheer their teams on for the NFL game scheduled for later in the evening at the iconic Maracanã Stadium. Our room was large with spectacular view of the Atlantic. Bliss.
A Day of Unexpected Twists – September 28, 2026
Today was an interesting day, to say the least—and it began with an unexpected bit of drama. After breakfast, we took an Uber into the city center with one main goal: to visit the Real Gabinete Português de Leitura (Royal Portuguese Reading Room). But as soon as we got out of the Uber, Albert realized he had left his camera bag, complete with his zoom lens, in the car. Panic set in! He immediately contacted Uber, which assured us they would reach out to the driver and try to retrieve it. With nothing more we could do, we crossed our fingers and headed off to the library. To our surprise, there was a long line of people waiting to get in. We joined the queue and, what seemed like an eternity later, finally made it inside. The wait was well worth it. The magnificent reading room, with its towering shelves containing some 350,000 books, ornate woodwork, busts of important writers and historical figures, stained-glass windows, and beautiful central skylight, was truly spectacular. The grandeur was such that it felt more like stepping into a historic cathedral than a library. The library has the largest collection of Portuguese works outside Portugal and includes many first editions of books of great significance in Portuguese history, such as Luís de Camões epic poem Os Lusíadas narrating the voyages of Vasco da Gama. There is no entrance fee to visit this library and there are no restroom facilities or signage in English, but they do have a gift shop. We took our time admiring this extraordinary space before heading back to the hotel.
Later in the afternoon, we headed to Botafogo, one of Rio’s more charming neighborhoods, known for its tree-lined streets, historic architecture, and spectacular views of Sugarloaf Mountain across Guanabara Bay. With time limited, we chose a couple of places to visit before heading to Praia de Botafogo to photograph the scenic coastline and Sugarloaf Mountain. Our first stop was the Fundação Casa de Rui Barbosa, a historic house and cultural center. Unfortunately, it was closed for a private event. Our next stop was Casa Firjan, a beautifully restored historic property and cultural center. Unfortunately, this too was closed. Didn’t we say it was going to be an interesting day? A short Uber ride took us to our final stop: Praia de Botafogo, where we had a sweeping view of Sugarloaf Mountain rising across the water. We paused to take a few photographs when, suddenly, it happened—the notification from Uber we had been anxiously waiting for: the camera bag and its contents had been found! We immediately headed back to the hotel, where our morning Uber driver was waiting to hand over the bag. After a day of closed doors, unexpected twists, and more than a little anxiety, we finally had our happy ending.
A Breathtaking Sunset at Arpoador – September 29 , 2026
Today, we decided to take it easy. Evan flew in from New York to join us, and the only item on our agenda was watching the sunset at Arpoador Rock. As the day drew to a close, we—minus Christabel, who decided to stay at the hotel—headed to Arpoador, the rocky outcrop between Copacabana and Ipanema that is one of Rio’s most popular sunset spots. By the time we arrived, the rocks were already crowded with people who had found their spots and were eagerly awaiting the sunset. We watched the sun sink toward the horizon, casting a warm glow over the ocean and the distant Dois Irmãos mountains. We took a few pictures, enjoyed the beautiful setting, and then headed back to the hotel. Later, we enjoyed a very nice dinner at the hotel’s rooftop restaurant to celebrate Christabel’s birthday.
Christ the Redeemer & the Start of the Wedding Celebrations– September 30 , 2026
Early in the morning, we set out for one of Rio’s most iconic landmarks, Christ the Redeemer, one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. We had booked the Trem do Corcovado online several days earlier, and fortunately, the weather was perfect—clear skies, no fog, and excellent visibility. After taking an Uber to the station and collecting our tickets, we boarded the train for the climb to the summit of Corcovado Mountain. The journey took us through the lush Atlantic Forest of Tijuca National Park, with the city gradually unfolding below us. At the top, we stood beneath the immense statue of Christ the Redeemer, arms outstretched over Rio. The panoramic views were spectacular, encompassing Copacabana and Ipanema, Sugarloaf Mountain, the coastline, and the distinctive Dois Irmãos peaks in the distance. We took plenty of photographs and savored the remarkable setting before making our way back down the mountain and returning to the hotel.
Later that evening, we headed to Xian Rio, a stylish rooftop restaurant offering contemporary Asian cuisine and sweeping views across Guanabara Bay toward Sugarloaf Mountain, Christ the Redeemer, and the Rio skyline. We were there for a cocktail reception hosted by Lysan and Alessandro, marking the beginning of their wedding celebrations in Rio. With beautiful views, delicious food, creative cocktails, and lively conversation, it was a wonderful evening. Most of all, it gave us a chance to reconnect with family and friends, including some we had not seen in many years. The evening also included birthday celebrations for three guests, including Christabel, complete with cakes and birthday songs in both English and Portuguese. It was a warm and memorable beginning to what promised to be a very special wedding celebration.
From the Feira to Sugarloaf – October 1, 2026
This morning, we visited a traditional open-air street market, or feira, just a short walk from our hotel. We wandered among the stalls filled with fresh fruits and vegetables, fish, chicken, flowers, and prepared foods. The markets are very reminiscent of those in India. Christabel had been impressed by the guavas and custard apples at our last feira, so we picked up some to enjoy later. On the way back, Christabel suggested stopping at the Amsterdam Sauer jewelry store in the hotel where we had previously stayed. To Albert’s great relief, the store was no longer there! Unfortunately for him, the concierge pointed her toward another store nearby. Naturally, Christabel couldn’t resist stopping in to say hello. After chatting with the staff and doing a little browsing, she promised to return. To be continued…
This afternoon, we had timed tickets for the cable-car ride to Sugarloaf Mountain. The mountain is one of several monolithic granite and quartz mountains that rise straight from the water’s edge around Rio de Janeiro. It gets its name from the sugar blocks imported from Goa, India, in the 16th century. Sugar was placed in conical clay molds to be transported by the Portuguese to Brazil. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2012 along with other iconic attractions. We took an Uber to the base of the mountain. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate. By the time we reached Parque Bondinho Pão de Açúcar, it was drizzling and quite windy. Undeterred, we boarded the first cable car to Morro da Urca, where we stepped out to take in panoramic views of Rio, including Botafogo Bay, Copacabana, the coastline, and surrounding mountains. At this level, a disco party was in full swing, and the entire area was swamped with very young tourists and bombarded with very loud music. Visibility was also very limited, but we still managed to take a few photographs and enjoy the dramatic setting. We then continued by cable car to Pão de Açúcar, the iconic granite peak overlooking Guanabara Bay. After walking around the summit and taking in the views, we hurried to retrace our journey back down and return to the hotel hoping to avoid the impending storm.
Jardim Botânico and a Celebration to Remember – October 2, 2026
This morning, we set out for the Jardim Botânico do Rio de Janeiro, arriving by Uber shortly after it opened. The garden is located at the foot of the Corcovado Mountain and was founded by King John VI of Portugal in 1808. It is home to some 6,000 species of plants and 140 species of birds, all of whom must have been sound asleep when we visited because we cannot recall seeing any. It also houses a major collection of books on botany and a research institute. The early hour made for a pleasant stroll through the shaded pathways, where we admired the towering imperial palms (all descendants of a single tree), a mango grove, tropical plants, roses, orchids bromeliads, and cacti with Corcovado rising above the trees in the distance. We also enjoyed the quiet beauty of the Japanese Garden and the Lily Pond. Having visited some truly spectacular botanical gardens around the world, we found this one in need of maintenance and modernization. Still, it was a peaceful way to spend the morning, and we were glad to experience one of Rio’s well-known attractions and check another item off our list. We then returned to the hotel to relax and get ready for the highlight of the day—the big celebration of Lysan and Alessandro’s wedding.
This afternoon brought the moment we had been looking forward to most—the wedding of Lysan and Alessandro. We were picked up by van and driven to the stunning Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelária, one of Rio’s most historic and beautiful churches. The church was initially a chapel built in thanksgiving by a Portuguese couple who arrived in Rio de Janeiro at the beginning of the 17th century on a ship called the Candelária that almost sank during a storm. Over the centuries it grew to be a magnificent Baroque and Neoclassical edifice, with a grand dome that has eight statues made from white stone imported from Portugal, ornate painted interior and columns and walls in Italian marble, German stained glass windows, bronze doors and pulpits, and richly decorated altars. In short, a typical over-the-top Roman Catholic church, but it created a spectacular setting for the ceremony. The bride and groom looked absolutely radiant—sophisticated, happy, and clearly filled with emotion. The ceremony, in English and Portuguese, itself was simple yet beautifully elegant, accompanied by lovely music that added to the warmth and solemnity of the occasion. It was a truly beautiful celebration and a special moment for all of us who had gathered to share it with them. Following the wedding ceremony, the celebrations continued at Solar Real, a charming historic venue in the heart of Rio’s Santa Teresa neighborhood. Surrounded by the character and charm of this hillside district and with Christ the Redeemer in the foreground, it was a beautiful setting for the evening’s festivities. It was truly an evening to remember, with an incredible array of delicious food, elegant cocktails, and lively music. Heartfelt toasts from the bride’s and groom’s parents added a particularly touching and personal moment to the evening, as they shared their good wishes and spoke of their love for the newlyweds. As the evening continued, family and friends celebrated Lysan and Alessandro with conversation, dancing, and joyful moments. It was more than a wedding reception—it was a wonderful gathering of two families and a fitting celebration of their love and the beginning of their life together.
A Relaxed Farewell by the Beach – October 3, 2026
Today was mostly a quiet and relaxing day, with a steady drizzle that lingered for much of the day. It was also the final day of the wedding celebrations, and we marked the occasion with a relaxed farewell gathering by the beach. Over lunch and drinks, we enjoyed good company, beautiful ocean views, and plenty of conversation. Although the weather was hardly sunny, the gathering provided a lovely opportunity to unwind together after the excitement of the wedding festivities and enjoy one last leisurely afternoon in Rio.
…By the way, Christabel passed on the opportunity to shop for jewelry at Sauer. As you read this, imagine Albert breathing a sigh of relief!
Até a próxima, Rio! – October 4, 2026
We left very early in the morning for our flight back to Miami. From there, we took an Uber to West Palm Beach. And a day later we took the auto train to Virginia and from there we drove back to New Jersey.