It is mid-July and we are back in Paris, ready to kick off another adventure — this time, a river cruise through Central Europe, with Paris, the “City of Light”, and Prague, the “City of a Hundred Spires”, as our starting and ending points. We traveled through four countries and cruised along the beautiful Rhine and Moselle rivers, passing through 48 locks and the historic Rhine-Main-Danube Canal — an incredible piece of engineering that links the North Sea all the way to the Black Sea. Along the way, we got to visit famous wine regions, wander through charming villages, and discover places a bit more off the beaten path. From fairytale castles and cozy towns to rolling vineyards and bustling local markets, the trip was full of surprises and unforgettable moments.
A Day of Art and Architecture in Paris – July 16, 2025
An uneventful overnight flight from Newark brought us back to Paris. This is our second trip here in less than two months. After leaving our bags at our hotel, we set out for the Musée de l’Orangerie, where we had timed-entry tickets to see Monet’s iconic Water Lilies murals. Housed in two oval rooms designed by Monet specifically for these eight large masterpieces, the panoramic paintings were breathtaking, offering a serene and immersive experience. After taking in Monet’s masterpieces, we explored the Walter-Guillaume collection downstairs. This impressive exhibit included works by Cézanne, Renoir, Picasso, Matisse, and Modigliani.
Next, we made our way on foot to the Palais Garnier, Paris’s magnificent 19th-century opera house, where we joined a guided tour for which we also had timed tickets. As we walked up the grand marble staircase, through the lavish grand foyer echoing the opulence of Versailles, and onto enchanting balconies, and through rooms with dazzling chandeliers, mirrors reflecting and refracting light, stunning ceiling frescoes depicting gods, goddesses, graces, and muses, statues and pillars, our guide shared stories about the opera house’s rich history and architecture. Commissioned by Napoleon III (who died before it was completed) and designed by Charles Garnier (who was made to pay for his ticket on opening night but was also awarded the Legion of Honor), the opera house was completed in 1875 as a symbol of the grandeur of the Second Empire. We admired the ornate, red velvet-clad auditorium with its stunning new ceiling painted by Chagall, which added a modern touch to the historic space. We also marveled at the library with its collection of books and manuscripts and were delighted to be able to walk through this space that has not changed since the end of the Second Empire. Regrettably our very packed schedule prevented us from seeing a performance here during this stay in Paris.
After the tour, we returned to the hotel to freshen up and get ready for a welcome reception and dinner with our fellow travelers.
Landmarks, Medieval Art, and a Seine River Cruise– July 17, 2025
After a very early breakfast, we boarded the bus and set off on an orientation tour through Paris, catching glimpses of some of the city’s most iconic landmarks. We drove past the majestic Arc de Triomphe, the grand Place de la Concorde, the historic Louvre, once a royal palace and now home to one of the world’s most renowned art collections, and the Pantheon. This was virtually a repeat of our last visit to Paris, except that we were driving through the city on roads that were virtually empty.
Next, we made our way to the Latin Quarter for a private guided visit to the Musée de Cluny – National Museum of the Middle Ages. Nestled among medieval streets, the museum is famed for its remarkably preserved 2nd-century Gallo-Roman baths and its extraordinary collection of medieval art, including stained glass, altar pieces, sculptures, illustrated manuscripts, and more. The highlight was the stunning series of six tapestries known as The Lady and the Unicorn, each featuring a lady, a unicorn, and a lion. Five of the six tapestries are dedicated to the senses—touch, taste, smell, hearing, and sight—while the sixth is believed to be about understanding or courtly love during the Age of Chivalry. Who commissioned these masterpieces is unknown, although there are some leading contenders. We left the museum stunned by the exquisite gilded and colorful artifacts on display, having previously viewed the Middle Ages as a time when food was either bad or scarce, sanitation and clean water were unheard of, and people were constantly plagued by wars or the Black Death.
The highlight of the morning was a private boat ride along the Seine River, giving us beautiful views of Paris from the water. We passed by famous landmarks like Notre-Dame, the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the golden dome of the Russian Orthodox Church, and glided under many of the city’s historic bridges. We also saw houseboats, restaurant boats, and the Bateau-Mouche, which are often long, open, glass encased excursion boats that offer visitors to Paris a view of the city from the Seine. The word “mouche” means fly. The company that operates these boats is the oldest in the business and they have been providing rides to visitors since the Paris Exposition of 1867. The ride ended near the Eiffel Tower, where we got off and took some time for photos of the Iron Lady.
Later in the afternoon, we visited the Musée de l’Armée at Les Invalides, using our timed-entry tickets to avoid the lines. The museum, housed within the historic Hôtel des Invalides, offers a comprehensive look at French military history, from the Middle Ages to World War II. Our visit included viewing the impressive collection of armor and weaponry, as well as exhibits on key military campaigns, uniforms, and medals that are among the 500,000 artifacts housed here. One of the highlights was the Dôme des Invalides, where Napoleon Bonaparte rests in a massive sarcophagus under a stunning golden dome. On our way out, we saw the French Prime Minister paying tribute to a service member in the courtyard that was attended by dignitaries, army personnel, and the press.
Luxembourg Revisited– July 18, 2025
Today was a very long day. We departed by coach for Luxembourg, as our original plan to take the TGV high-speed train was disrupted by essential track maintenance—scheduled through September—requiring a five-hour bus journey instead.
Luxembourg, the seventh smallest country in the world, is bordered by Belgium, France, and Germany. Despite its modest size, it ranks among the world’s wealthiest nations and serves as a major financial and administrative hub, hosting several institutions of the European Union. This is our second visit to Luxembourg; the last was in 2017. Upon arrival, we joined a short, guided walking tour of the historic center of Luxembourg City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We walked along the pedestrian suspension bridge beneath the iconic Pont Adolphe—the world’s first walkway and cycle path suspended under a historic bridge. Our first stop was Constitution Square, where we saw the iconic Golden Lady monument, the old and new bridges, and the impressive buildings across the Pétrusse Valley. The tour continued through the charming Old Town, with its cobblestone streets, grand squares, and a mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and modern architecture. Along the way, we passed notable landmarks such as the Grand Ducal Palace and Notre-Dame Cathedral.
Following our walking tour of Luxembourg, we departed for Koblenz to join our rivership, MS Joy. On the way, we made a poignant stop at the Luxembourg American Cemetery—a solemn, impeccably maintained site where over 5,000 American service members are buried, most of whom died during the Battle of the Bulge in World War II. Among them is Second Lieutenant Nancy Leo, the only woman buried there. The cemetery also holds the grave of General George S. Patton, which stands prominently near the entrance. Although he died in a car accident in Heidelberg, Germany, Patton had requested in his will to be buried alongside the men who served under his command. While at the cemetery each one of us laid a white rose on the grave of a service member. So many of those who are buried here were so very young when they died.
Timeless Trier – July 19, 2025
We spent the night docked in Koblenz. This morning, after a scenic two-hour coach ride, we arrived in Trier, where we met our local guide for a walking tour of the city. This is our second trip to Trier; our first visit was in 2017. Trier is considered the oldest city in Germany, founded by the Romans in 16 BCE under Emperor Augustus and later became a prominent city of the Western Roman Empire. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Our tour began at the Imperial Baths (Kaiserthermen), once among the largest public bath complexes in the Roman world, illustrating the scale and sophistication of Roman engineering. Next, we visited the Konstantin-Basilika, also known as the Basilica of Constantine, which was once the throne hall of Emperor Constantine. Built in the 4th century, it is the largest surviving Roman hall from ancient times. Today, it is a Protestant church. We then visited Trier Cathedral (Dom St. Peter), Germany’s oldest cathedral, begun under Emperor Constantine the Great in the early 4th century. The cathedral houses several significant religious relics, most notably the Holy Robe, believed by many to be the seamless garment worn by Jesus before his crucifixion. According to tradition, it was brought to Trier from Jerusalem by Saint Helena, Constantine’s mother. Among other treasures, the cathedral also holds a nail believed to be from the Crucifixion.
We continued our walk through the lively market square (Hauptmarkt), lined with colorful facades, medieval buildings, and bustling shops. The tour ended at the city’s most famous landmark, the Porta Nigra—a massive Roman gate constructed in the 2nd century CE, and the best-preserved Roman city gate north of the Alps.
After the guided tour and a quick lunch, we returned to the Cathedral to view the Holy Robe, which is rarely displayed to the public. We then stopped at the nearby Church of St. Gangolf, a beautiful late-Gothic church known for its elegant Baroque interior. Our final stop was a visit to the Karl Marx statue, a larger-than-life bronze sculpture gifted by China in 2018 to mark the bicentennial of Marx’s birth. The statue stands in a small plaza near the philosopher’s birthplace.
A Scenic Hunt Through Koblenz – July 20, 2025
We are docked in Koblenz, a historic city in western Germany that we last visited in 2017. This morning after breakfast, one of the tour directors, Barbara, led a group of us to the German Corner (Deutsches Eck), where the Moselle River flows into the Rhine. This symbolic site features a towering equestrian statue of Emperor Wilhelm I, commemorating the unification of Germany in the 19th century. Nearby, a preserved section of the Berlin Wall serves as a poignant reminder of Germany’s more recent history—its division during the Cold War and the eventual reunification in 1990.
Today’s exploration of Koblenz wasn’t a typical guided tour—it was a fun self-guided scavenger hunt that helped us discover some of the city’s famous sights and hidden gems. Our first clue took us to St. Florin’s Church, a striking white and yellow building with two steeples. There, we looked for the famous clock with the Augenroller—a carved face that rolls its eyes and sticks out its tongue every 30 seconds. It’s a bit creepy but also pretty funny! Local legend says it’s based on a 16th-century criminal who made that exact face right before his execution. Definitely one of the most memorable clocks we’ve seen!
Next, we crossed the street to the narrow Mehlgasse to find a small statue of Pfefferminzje, a woman known for selling peppermint sweets around Koblenz in the 1920s. She’s one of the “Koblenzer Originale,” statues around the city honoring quirky local characters from the past.
Our next clue sent us to the second main church on the same street—the Church of Our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche). Just a short walk from St. Florin’s, this beautiful church with its twin onion domes has been a key part of the city’s skyline for centuries.
Then we headed to Jesuitenplatz, where the Jesuit church stands at one end and the Town Hall on the right. Walking through the arches into the courtyard, we found the Schängelbrunnen—a fountain with a cheeky bronze boy who suddenly spits water, sometimes splashing unsuspecting visitors!
From there, we went to Görresplatz, named after local historian Josef Görres. Along the way we stopped for a sampling of chocolates at Cahua, the Secret Chocolate Lab and caramels at Frl. Diehl’s little shop. After our sugar fix, we rushed to the center of the platz to view a tall bronze column covered with scenes from Koblenz’s history—from Roman times to today. It was created to celebrate the city’s 2,000-year anniversary and was unveiled in 2000.
Our final clue led us to St. Castor’s Church, the oldest of Koblenz’s three main churches. Then we headed into the Ludwig Museum courtyard, where we found César’s bronze sculpture called Le Pouce (The Thumb). This huge 2.4-meter artwork is a striking giant thumb—definitely a unique sight to end our hunt.
Our last task was to find a mural of the spitting boy. Supposedly there are several of these all over Koblenz. We had almost given up when we stumbled upon one opposite the place where our ship was docked.
Our final activity of the day was a scenic gondola ride up to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, which towers above the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers at the German Corner in Koblenz. This imposing fortress, originally constructed in the 11th century and later rebuilt by the Prussians in the early 19th century, served as a key part of the region’s defensive system. After disembarking at the top, we took a short walk to a panoramic viewpoint that offered sweeping views over Koblenz, the two rivers, and the surrounding countryside. After taking in the scenery and snapping some photos, we boarded the gondola once more and made our way back down to the riverbank, then returned to the ship.
Castle Ping Pong – July 21, 2025
We woke up in Boppard, a picturesque town we had visited before. While some guests chose a 30-mile bike ride to Rüdesheim, we stayed aboard and enjoyed what’s often called the most scenic stretch of the Rhine River. This was our third time navigating this beautiful section.
The area nicknamed “Castle Ping Pong,” is lined with hilltop castles on both sides of the river. As we cruised through the Middle Rhine Valley—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—our tour director Barbara shared fascinating stories and legends about the castles and historic towns along the way. A highlight was passing the Lorelei, a steep slate rock associated with the famous legend of a siren who lured sailors to their doom with her song. The narrow, winding stretch of river here has long been treacherous for ships, adding to the mystique of the tale.
By midday, we arrived in Rüdesheim, ready for the next part of our journey. After lunch, we boarded a mini-train that took us from the riverfront to the town center of Rüdesheim, a charming wine town we had visited on a previous trip. We spent some time browsing the shops and picking up a few Christmas ornaments. After a leisurely walk through town, we returned to the ship by mini-train.
This evening, we were driven to Schlosshotel Kronberg for an elegant dinner. Located just outside Frankfurt, this grand castle-turned-hotel was built in 1893 by the Dowager Empress Victoria Friedrich—the eldest daughter of Queen Victoria, widow of German Emperor Friedrich III (who ruled for only 99 days), and mother of Kaiser Wilhelm II, one of the rulers responsible for World War I. Empress Friedrich and her husband were greatly influenced by Britain, while Wilhelm was staunchly pro-Prussian. The son was content to have his mother reside somewhere other than Potsdam. Kronberg castle became extremely popular with the Empress’s extended family, and her siblings and their children visited frequently. Queen Victoria herself and Tsar Nicholas II were among the distinguished guests. The castle radiates imperial charm and sophistication, adorned with original antiques, fine furnishings, porcelain, mirrors, stained-glass windows, and artworks (including pieces by Rubens, Titian, and Gainsborough) from the Empress’s private collection. We were able to take a brief tour of the interiors after dinner, though the gardens were off-limits due to rain. Today, the property is owned by Donatus Landgrave of Hesse, and his family, who opened the house to the public in 1954.
Flavors of Frankfurt – July 22, 2025
We are docked in Mainz, just outside Frankfurt. Today was a relatively light day in terms of pace, but full of cultural highlights. After breakfast, we took a bus into Frankfurt, Germany’s fifth-largest city, for a guided tour of its main attractions in the Old Town. On the way we passed a street where there were car dealerships for possibly every car on the planet. We also passed by a building with twin towers which is the site for a big European bank, and the Alte Oper Frankfurt Concert and Congress Centre which is the new theatre that opened in 1981 after decades as ‘Germany’s most beautiful ruin’ (it was bombed in 1944).
There were two tour options: a relaxed stroll or a more active walking tour covering a wider area. We chose the latter, eager to see more of the city. Our tour began at St. Paul’s Church (Paulskirche), a symbol of German democracy, and continued through Frankfurt’s Old Town. We wandered past historic cathedrals and beautifully restored half-timbered houses with ornate gables lining the cobbled streets, and charming squares. Along the way, we enjoyed tastings of local specialties—starting, of course, with the classic Frankfurter Würstchen served with Grüne Soße (a creamy green herb sauce that must include the following seven herbs: borage, chervil, cress, parsley, salad burnet, sorrel, and chives). We then sampled Bethmännchen, a traditional almond-marzipan pastry unique to Frankfurt, and finished with a sip of the city’s beloved Apfelwein (apple wine), served tart and refreshing. We believe this wine to be an acquired taste.
Our last stop was a visit to the Emperors’ Hall (Kaisersaal) in the town hall, located within the Römer complex. Römer means “at the Roman,” a reference to the Roman settlements in the area before the city was founded. The Römer is where the city councilors meet, and it also houses many offices, including the civil registry office. In 1405, the city council purchased the buildings at the Römer from the merchant Kunz for “800 guldens of good Frankfurt currency in cash.” Over the centuries, nine buildings and several inner courtyards were added to create the present-day Römer complex. A red stone bridge named the Bridge of Sighs (Seufzerbrücke) connects the older buildings with the newer ones across the street. Some of these structures once featured towers, turrets, and spires, but they were damaged during Allied bombing in World War II. The Kaisersaal itself was reconstructed. . We climbed a circular Renaissance style staircase to view the 52 portraits of rulers—dating from 1152 to the abdication of Franz II in 1806—many of whom were crowned in the Kaisersaal.
Our tour concluded where it began, at St. Paul’s, before we boarded the bus and returned to the ship still docked in Mainz.
A Day of Artisanship and Local Flavor Along the Main – July 23, 2025
We are docked in Wertheim, a small and beautiful town we last visited in 2022. Today, we had a choice of three excursions: a visit to Homburg and its Historic Paper Mill, Homburg’s Antique Piano Collection, or a Blacksmith Workshop and Museum. While Albert chose the paper mill tour, Christabel opted for the antique piano collection. The drive from the docked ship to Homburg was short and scenic.
The historic Papiermühle Homburg, originally built in 1807, operated as a working paper mill until 1975. The two-story, twin-winged building is constructed in the traditional half-timbered style, both architecturally impressive and well-suited for its original industrial purpose. Our guide was the current owner, Johannes Follmer, who gave us an engaging and informative tour of the mill. Inside, we saw a variety of historic machinery used in the papermaking process, including large wooden vats for pulp, water wheels for powering early machines, and presses used to remove excess water from the sheets. Johannes also provided a hands-on demonstration of traditional paper making. The process began with a slurry of cotton or wood pulp suspended in water. Using a framed screen, he scooped up the pulp, gently shaking it to form an even layer. The wet sheet was then pressed to remove water and carefully transferred to felt for drying. This centuries-old technique remains virtually unchanged and gave us a real appreciation for the craftsmanship behind handmade paper.
Homburg’s Antique Pianos reside in the Schloss Homburg. They are part of the collection of 30-40 keyboard instruments ranging from harpsichords to fortepianos to square pianos from the 17th to the 19th centuries that belong to Michael Günther who studies them and performs the works of Bach, Beethoven, Mozart and other famous Baroque and Classical composers on them. Michael Günther also collects manuscripts and prints. We were able to view a few of the instruments and one of the manuscripts. As the palace is being restored, it was not possible to see the rest of the collections. He played for us the music of Pachelbel, Mozart, and Bach. Michael Günther studied harpsichord and historical keyboard instruments at the Würzburg University of Music.
After completing our individual excursions, our group reconvened in the town of Marktheidenfeld to learn about the local winemaking tradition and experience a regional wine tasting. The session took place in the historic wine cellar of Hotel Anker, a structure dating back over 450 years and constructed from local sandstone, as explained by our host, Johannes Deppisch. In this atmospheric setting, we sampled four distinctive wines representative of the region: a sparkling wine, a red, and two white varietals.
Following the wine tasting session, we took a short walk to Hotel zur Schönen Aussicht, where we enjoyed a relaxed, barbecue-style lunch. The meal was accompanied by live music performed by a charming husband-and-wife duo—he on guitar and she on accordion—adding a festive, local flair to the afternoon. After lunch, we made our way to the riverbank, where our ship was now docked in Marktheidenfeld, ready to continue our journey.
Medieval Wonders of Rothenburg – July 24, 2025
We are currently docked in Würzburg, a historic city we last visited in 2022. Today’s itinerary offered two excursion options: a guided walking tour of Würzburg itself or a scenic, one-hour drive to the medieval town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber for a guided tour. Since we had previously explored Würzburg, we chose to visit Rothenburg, renowned for its remarkably well-preserved medieval architecture, charming cobblestone streets, and centuries-old fortifications.
Upon arriving in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, we met our local guide for a 90-minute walking tour of this beautifully preserved medieval town. The tour took us through the cobblestone streets and past many of Rothenburg’s key landmarks, including the town’s iconic city walls, half-timbered houses, and the 13th-century Röder Gate. We explored the charming Plönlein, a picturesque spot that has inspired the setting for Geppetto’s home in Disney’s Pinocchio, the imposing Town Hall (Rathaus) with its Renaissance and Gothic architecture, and several lookout points offering panoramic views of the Tauber Valley. Our tour concluded at the vibrant Market Place (Marktplatz), the heart of the old town.
After lunch and during our free time, we visited St. Jakob’s Church (St. Jakobskirche), a Gothic masterpiece completed in the 15th century. Inside, we admired several significant altarpieces. Most notably, we viewed the Holy Blood Altarpiece, a stunning wood-carved work by Tilman Riemenschneider (1501–1505), which features intricate depictions of the Last Supper and houses a relic said to contain a drop of Christ’s blood. We also saw the High Altar of the Twelve Apostles created in 1466 by Friedrich Herlin, and the Altar of the Coronation of the Virgin Mary created around 1500, attributed to the Riemenschneider School, all of which highlight the church’s rich artistic and religious heritage.
During our tour of Rothenburg, we passed the Goethe Institute, where Jorge Mario Bergoglio—later Pope Francis—studied the German language for two months in 1986. We also stopped briefly at the house of Käthe Wohlfahrt and met her grandson in the parking lot. Käthe was a Christmas specialist who along with her husband founded the Käthe Wohlfahrt company that sells traditional German Christmas decorations. Her Christmas stores are very popular and she has an ardent following in the U.S. and Japan.
Afterward, we strolled through the town at a relaxed pace, did a bit of shopping, and soaked in the medieval atmosphere before regrouping with the rest of our party. From there, we boarded a bus to rejoin our river ship, which had departed Würzburg during our excursion and was now docked in the nearby town of Marktbreit.
A Day in Bayreuth: Music, History, and Heritage – July 25, 2025
We are currently docked in Zeil am Main. Today’s itinerary offered two excursion options: a visit to Bamberg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its medieval architecture and charming old town, or a one-hour drive to Bayreuth to explore the former home of composer and theatre director Richard Wagner, followed by a tour of the renowned Margravial Opera House. We chose the Bayreuth excursion this time, as Christabel was feeling unwell during our last visit to the region and unfortunately missed the opportunity to see the town.
After arriving in Bayreuth, we met our local guide and walked to the Richard Wagner Museum, located in the composer’s former home, Haus Wahnfried. During the guided tour, we learned about Wagner’s life and work, saw personal items and original manuscripts, and visited the rooms where he lived and worked. The tour ended in the peaceful garden behind the house, where Wagner and his wife Cosima are buried. Today was the opening day of the Bayreuth Festival which was established by Richard Wagner and has been run by a member of the Wagner family ever since; currently it is run by Katharina Wagner, Richard’s great grand daughter.
We then continued to the Margravial Opera House, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Guided tours aren’t allowed inside, so we explored on our own. The opera house, built in the 18th century for the wedding of Elisabeth Friederike Sophie (granddaughter of Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm I) and Duke Carl Eugen of Württenberg, is one of the best-preserved Baroque theaters in Europe. Its lavish interior, with gold detailing and monumental painted ceilings depicting the god Apollo, patron of the arts and leader of the muses; the Arts consisting of the tools for Sculpture, Painting, Music, and Military and Civilian Architecture; the tools of the muses of tragedy, comedy, astronomy and heroic poetry; and the winged horse Pegasus was stunning.
After the tour, we had lunch and took a short walk through Bayreuth’s town center before driving back to Bamberg, where our ship was docked.
That evening, we were treated to a fun performance by the Wolkacher Ratsherren, a five-piece Oompah band, in the lounge. They played a great mix of traditional German songs that really added to the festive vibe.
Above and Below: Exploring Nuremberg – July 26, 2025
We are docked in Nuremberg (Nürnberg). As with previous stops, our itinerary offered two excursion options: one was a guided walking tour of Nuremberg’s beautifully preserved historic landmarks, and the other was a unique guided experience exploring the Franconian capital both above ground and through its underground tunnels and cellars.
Both of us chose the latter tour. This marked Albert’s third visit to Nuremberg, but it was his first time exploring the historic Old Town. For Christabel, this was a long-awaited experience, as she had missed visiting the city on two previous trips due to illness.
We began our day by taking a bus to the city center, where we met our local guides. Our tour started with a drive through the city, accompanied by one of the guides who provided informative commentary about Nuremberg’s rich history, including its medieval roots, its role during the Nazi era, and its post-war reconstruction.
Our first major stop was at Kaiserburg Castle (Imperial Castle), a prominent symbol of Nuremberg and a key landmark in German history. We began a guided walking tour of the castle, exploring its grounds, courtyards, and towers. The guide explained the castle’s significance as a former residence of Holy Roman Emperors and its strategic importance in medieval times.
Following the castle visit, we continued on foot through the charming Old Town. Our guide pointed out several key attractions, including the Albrecht Dürer House (the famous painter and printmaker of Hungarian descent was born here), the medieval city walls, and picturesque half-timbered buildings. The tour then took us underground for a guided visit to the historic rock-cut cellars and beer tunnels beneath the city—an impressive network originally used for brewing and storing beer (head cheese, pickles, and schnapps were also made in the tunnels), later repurposed as air raid shelters during World War II.
After the underground tour, we walked to the Hauptmarkt (Main Market Square), where we were given free time to explore on our own. During this time, we visited Nuremberg’s two churches: St. Sebaldus Church, a Lutheran church and one of the oldest in the city, and Frauenkirche (“Church of Our Lady”) originally built by Emperor Charles IV between 1352 and 1362. At the end of our visit, we rejoined the group and boarded the bus back to our ship, now docked in Roth.
Tour of Historic Regensburg – July 27, 2025
After an incredible journey cruising along the Rhine, Moselle, Main, and the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal, we have now arrived in Regensburg, where our ship is docked on the banks of the Danube River. This historic Bavarian city marks the final stop on our memorable river cruise through some of Europe’s most scenic and culturally rich waterways. We said goodbye to our lovely riverboat, which has been our floating home throughout this incredible journey.
A short bus ride brought us to the heart of Regensburg, where we met our local guide for a walking tour of the city’s historic center. During the Middle Ages, Regensburg prospered as it was on the trade route for spices from India and silks from China. As we strolled through the cobbled streets, we explored many of the city’s highlights, including the Old Town Hall, the Gothic-style St. Peter’s Cathedral, and remnants of ancient Roman architecture such as the Porta Praetoria. Not to be missed, our guide pointed out the Historische Wurstküche, believed to be the world’s oldest continuously operating sausage kitchen, dating back to the 12th century. Located beside the Stone Bridge, it has served traditional grilled sausages with sauerkraut and sweet mustard for centuries. Just a few steps away, we visited the Brückturm (Bridge Tower), the only surviving one of the original three medieval gate towers.
During our free time, we took the opportunity to visit the magnificent St. Peter’s Cathedral in more depth, admiring its stunning stained glass and soaring spires. We also crossed the iconic Stone Bridge, a 12th-century structure that connects the Old Town to the charming district of Stadtamhof, offering panoramic views of the Danube River. Along the way, we also admired several murals on the building walls, the most striking of which was the depiction of David and Goliath.
Today Regensburg is a popular university town known for its music program and its Regensburger Domspatzen or Cathedral Sparrows, the boys’ choir dating back to 975. In the afternoon, we boarded our bus for the approximately four-hour drive to Prague. Upon arrival, we checked into our hotel and settled in, looking forward to exploring the Czech capital in the days ahead.rd to exploring the Czech capital in the days ahead.
Prague: City of a Hundred Spires – July 28, 2025
We woke up in Prague, the capital and largest city of the Czech Republic. It’s a magical place full of history, with architecture ranging from Romanesque and Gothic to Baroque and Renaissance. Known as the “City of a Hundred Spires,” Prague is famous for the many towers and steeples that shape its skyline.
As in previous cities, we had a choice between two guided tours: a shorter walk covering the main sights, or a more active one that explored more of the city. We chose the more active option.
We started from our hotel and walked with our local guide through the Jewish Quarter, where we saw historic synagogues. From there, we made our way to the Charles Bridge, a beautiful 14th-century stone bridge lined with statues, offering great views of the Vltava River and the city.
Next, we stopped at the Lennon Wall, filled with colorful graffiti and messages of peace and freedom inspired by John Lennon and The Beatles. Afterward, we walked through the Vrtba Garden (Vrtbovská zahrada), a Baroque terraced garden laid out in the French style, and climbed to the top for a panoramic view of the city.
Our tour ended at St. Nicholas Church in the Lesser Town (Mala Strana), a stunning high Baroque church with a massive dome and a beautifully decorated interior. We were fortunate enough to have the church organist play three pieces on the organ for us. The music sounded sublime in that setting. Oral tradition says that Mozart played on this 4000+ pipe organ when he and his wife were in Prague in 1787 but there is no actual evidence that this happened. However, his Requiem was performed in the church in his memory in 1791.
During our free time we visited the Church of Our Lady Victorious to see the famous statue of the Infant Jesus of Prague, then enjoyed lunch at a local pizzeria. Later, we headed to Old Town Square to see the Astronomical Clock, installed in 1410 on the Old Town Hall. It’s the third-oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest still in operation, featuring moving statues, zodiacal symbols, and a stunning hourly show of the twelve apostles. We then made our way back to the hotel.
Later in the evening, we gathered for our farewell reception and dinner, a truly special finale to this unforgettable journey through four countries. This wasn’t just any dinner—it was a grand celebration held at the historic Lobkowicz Palace, located within the grounds of Prague Castle. Dating back to the 16th century, the palace is the only privately owned building in the castle complex and offers sweeping views of Prague’s skyline from its elegant balcony. We were welcomed to the palace by one of the daughters of Prince William Lobkowicz. She narrated the history of the family and their move to the U.S. during World War II. We enjoyed an elegant three-course meal, accompanied by music provided by a quartet of very accomplished musicians, which added to the refined and festive atmosphere. After dinner, we were treated to a private tour of the Lobkowicz Collections, one of the most significant family-owned art collections in Central Europe. The exhibits included paintings by masters such as Canaletto, Brueghel, and Velázquez, original handwritten manuscripts by Beethoven and Mozart, rare arms and armor, porcelain, and other decorative arts.
Exploring Prague Beyond the Tour – July 29, 2025
Although our official tour ended yesterday, we had planned an extra day in Prague to explore more of the city—a place we had visited before but never fully experienced. This morning, Albert returned to the Old Town Square and the iconic Charles Bridge to take photographs, hoping for fewer crowds in the early hours. Later, we crossed the footbridge in front of our hotel and made our way uphill to visit the Prague Metronome, a giant, functional kinetic sculpture that stands on the spot where a massive statue of Stalin once stood. Installed in 1991, the Metronome symbolizes the passage of time and the city’s movement beyond its communist past. From this elevated location in Letná Park, we enjoyed sweeping views of the Vltava River and the city below.
Next, we walked to the nearby St. Agnes Convent, a peaceful and historic complex tucked away from the busy streets of Prague. Founded in the 13th century by Princess Agnes of Bohemia, it is one of the oldest Gothic buildings in the city and played an important role in Prague’s early religious and cultural life. As we walked through its quiet cloisters and former living quarters, we got a real sense of its original monastic atmosphere, with its simple chapels and calm courtyards adding to the feeling of serenity.
In the afternoon, we had signed up for a three-hour guided walking tour of Prague. Unfortunately, Christabel wasn’t feeling well and had to skip the excursion, so Albert went on his own. The tour began at the Old Town Square, where the group gathered before boarding a tram that took us up to Prague Castle—one of the largest ancient castle complexes in the world. At the Castle, we explored several key landmarks. First was St. Vitus Cathedral, a stunning example of Gothic architecture and the spiritual heart of the Czech Republic, known for its soaring spires and beautiful stained-glass windows. We then visited the Old Royal Palace, once the seat of Bohemian kings, where we saw the grand Vladislav Hall used for coronations and royal events. Next came St. George’s Basilica, a Romanesque church dating back to the 10th century, offering a quieter, more austere contrast to the cathedral. Finally, we strolled through Golden Lane, a charming, narrow street lined with colorful historic houses that once housed castle guards, goldsmiths, and even writer Franz Kafka for a brief period. From the Castle, we walked down through the picturesque Lesser Town and made our way to the Charles Bridge, where the tour concluded.
Homeward Bound – July 30, 2025
We left Prague and flew home through Munich.
I love reading about your adventures. You are so fortunate to be able to do this.
Spectacular! Thanks, as always, for such amazing pictures and descriptions!