When we started traveling in 2010, we used to post our travel diary with pictures on a commercial website. Unfortunately, we lost all the posted content as this website shut down without notice, leaving us scrambling to come up with a more permanent alternative.
Now that we have our own travel website, we are attempting to recreate some of the lost blogs based on notes, itineraries, Wikipedia, and good old-fashioned memory. This is one such recreation. It’s a labor of love, piecing together the adventures that shaped our lives and sharing them with you once again.
In this recreated blog, you’ll find a narrative along with pictures of our 7-night Rhône River cruise, an unforgettable journey through the heart of French vineyard country. This adventure took us from the culinary capital of Lyon to the historic city of Arles, a city that inspired many of Vincent van Gogh’s masterpieces, with numerous remarkable stops along the way.
Giverny: A Memorable Visit to Monet’s Gardens – May 25, 2016
We flew to Paris a few days ahead of our river cruise to take advantage of the beautiful weather and to visit a few places outside the city that we hadn’t seen on our previous trips.
Today, we took a bus tour to Monet’s house and gardens in Giverny. On the way, we passed by the Cathedral of Rouen, famously depicted in Claude Monet’s series of paintings capturing its façade. Monet’s fascination with the cathedral’s intricate Gothic architecture and its changing appearance under different light conditions led him to create over thirty canvases during the 1890s.
Upon arriving in Giverny, we strolled through Monet’s colorful gardens, meticulously designed with vibrant flowers, serene water lilies, and the iconic Japanese bridge, all immortalized in his masterpieces. The garden is maintained by a British gardener, and the selection of flowers felt very European. There were many irises, columbines, and poppies.
Next, we explored Monet’s house and studio, now preserved as a museum. The house itself was surprisingly large, but all the paintings inside are reproductions. What also stood out was the number of Japanese prints on display.
A Visit to the Magnificent Chartres Cathedral – May 26, 2016
We took the train from Gare Montparnasse in Paris to Chartres to visit Chartres Cathedral, considered one of the most beautiful and historically significant cathedrals in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As we approached the cathedral, we couldn’t help but gawk at the towering Gothic structure with its twin spires and intricate façade adorned with beautifully carved sculptures. Stepping inside, we were immediately struck by the vast nave and soaring ceilings, illuminated by over 150 intricately designed stained-glass windows. These stunning windows, dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries, filled the interior with vibrant colors and detailed biblical scenes. The cathedral houses two famous relics: one is the Veil of the Virgin Mary, and the other is the tunic (the “Sancta Camisa”) said to be worn by Mary during Christ’s birth. We were fortunate enough to be able to attend mass in the crypt of Notre Dame de Sous Terre.
After touring the cathedral, we took some time to walk around the charming town of Chartres, enjoying its quaint streets and historic ambiance. We then had lunch at a local café and returned to Paris.
A Day at King Louis XIV’s Château de Versailles – May 27, 2016
Today, we took a train to Versailles to visit King Louis XIV’s Château de Versailles, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The last time we were here was in 2004 with our young son. The outbound journey was quite interesting as our train was rerouted.
Upon arriving at Versailles, we took a self-guided tour of the palace and its gardens. Standing on the grounds of a once humble hunting lodge, the palace at Versailles was built to impress, inside and out. The golden gates and the opulent Hall of Mirrors left us in awe, with its sparkling chandeliers and intricate ceiling paintings. We explored many of the most famous of its 700 rooms, including the King’s and Queen’s Grand Apartments. The rooms were adorned with rich tapestries, exquisite furniture, and ornate decorations, each more impressive than the last.
Outside, we toured the gardens, one of the biggest in the world. The symmetrical design, the grand fountains, and the perfectly trimmed hedges all exemplified the height of French garden design.
The visit to the Petit Trianon and the Queen’s Hamlet provided a contrasting, more intimate glimpse into royal life.
Welcome Reception and Dinner – May 28, 2016
Earlier today, we checked in at the InterContinental Paris Le Grand Hotel, located in the heart of the city near the Opéra Garnier. The hotel has hosted many famous luminaries over the years, and some of the notable guests included Victor Hugo, Oscar Wilde, Marlene Dietrich, Ernest Hemingway, and Mata Hari.
Later in the evening, we were bused to a welcome reception and dinner at the renowned Fouquet’s, a favorite brasserie of celebrities and a Paris icon since 1908. The exquisite cuisine and attentive service made the dining experience truly memorable.
After dinner, we went on an “Illuminations Tour” of Paris, which provided glittering views of the city’s nighttime lights. The illuminated landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower and the Seine River, provided a magical view of Paris by night. This was a perfect ending to our first official day of the tour.
In-Depth Look at the Marais District – May 29, 2016
Today, we had a choice between a classic panoramic city tour of Paris or a guided walking tour for an in-depth look at the Marais district, home to more than a hundred art and antique dealers. We opted for the tour of the Marais district of Paris as we had seen most of the landmarks of the city on our previous visits.
As we strolled through the Marais district, our guided recounted the district’s rich history, from the Middle Ages (when its fertile land was home to vast gardens and orchards) to the 16th and 18th centuries, when noble families built incredible private mansions that are now hotels.
The narrow, cobblestone streets were lined with beautifully preserved medieval buildings, their facades adorned with wrought iron balconies. We wandered past chic boutiques and cozy cafes stopping at the Place des Vosges, the oldest planned square in Paris. We then walked through the Jewish Quarter before returning to the hotel to spend the rest of the day on our own.
Train to Lyon & Embarkation – May 30, 2016
Today was primarily a travel day. After a leisurely morning, we took the high-speed train to Lyon, located at the confluence of the Saône and Rhône rivers. Lyon is France’s third-largest city, boasting a rich heritage of Roman ruins and Renaissance-era architecture. Historically renowned for its prominent silk industry, the city is now celebrated as the gastronomic capital of France.
Upon arriving in Lyon, we boarded our riverboat, MS Emerald, to begin our 7-night adventure on the Rhône River. Following a briefing and the Captain’s welcome reception, we enjoyed a sumptuous multi-course dinner.
Pleasures of Lyon and Taste of Beaujolais – May 31, 2016
Today, we went on a guided tour of Lyon that included the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, the Old Town (Vieux Lyon), a UNESCO World Heritage site, and Les Halles de Lyon.
As we arrived at the basilica, a heavy downpour greeted us. Perched on top of the ruins of a Roman forum overlooking Lyon and built between 1872 and 1884, Notre-Dame de Fourvière is a stunning basilica that blends Romanesque and Byzantine architectural styles. The church is privately owned and was recently renovated. We were captivated by its intricate mosaics, stained glass windows, and impressive crypt. Afterwards, we enjoyed breathtaking panoramic views of Lyon from its terrace.
From the basilica, we went to Vieux Lyon, an area full of charming little shops and bouchons (little bistros). Of particular interest are the traboules, secret pedestrian passageways that lead through buildings from one street to the next. Not all traboules are open to the public, so one needs to know their locations. We were able to walk through some of these passages which was quite exciting.
Our next stop was Les Halles de Lyon, the celebrated indoor food market that’s been a fixture in Lyon since 1850 and offers an unbelievable array of breads, cheeses, fresh fruits and vegetables, sausages, wines, chocolates, and more. Everything is fresh and it’s said that the best chefs in Lyon shop here. After a short, guided tour of the market, we enjoyed tastings of various goodies paired with appropriate wines. What a treat!
The next adventure of the day was a trip to the famed Beaujolais wine-growing region for a visit to a winery and wine tasting. Upon arriving at Chateau de La Chaise, a beautiful property, we were given a tour of its winemaking operation and cellars, followed by a tasting of three of its Beaujolais wines. Hillary Clinton visited this winery about 20 years ago, and there are many photos of her on the walls. Who knows, she might even become president one day!
Of particular interest to history buffs, this chateau was built with funds provided by Père de la Chaise, the Jesuit confessor to Louis IV and after whom the famous cemetery Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris is named and where such notables as Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein, Federic Chopin, Marcel Proust, Edith Piaf, Sarah Bernhardt, Isadora Duncan, and Jim Morrison are buried. It is said that this connection saved the chateau from destruction during the French Revolution, but that might be apocryphal because the cemetery was established by Napoleon sometime after the revolution.
On our way back to the ship, we made a detour to visit a convent called the Priory of Salles, which historically housed daughters of nobility whose families couldn’t arrange marriages for them. The convent was set ablaze during the French Revolution. The church, dedicated to Saint Martin, is a small Romanesque structure dating back to the 12th century. Inside, we explored a little museum featuring a book of Gregorian chants and other religious artifacts. We then walked through the cloister, which had two small rooms – one for meditation and one for conversation.
An Afternoon in Ancient Viviers – June 1, 2016
This morning, our riverboat cruised to Viviers, a walled city on the right bank of the Rhône dating back to the 5th century. It is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in all of France. Its narrow streets and lanes offer a glimpse into what life might have been like during the Middle Ages. We explored these narrow streets on a walking tour with our local guide, visiting landmarks such as the 12th-century Cathedral of Notre Dame de Rhône and the richly detailed façade of the Maison des Chevaliers, once the home of a wealthy salt merchant in the 1500s.
On our way back to the ship, we watched locals play pétanque, a popular Provencal game similar to the American game of horseshoes. Some members of our group even tried their hand at it, with varying degrees of success.
We spent the evening cruising as our boat continued on to Arles in Provence.
Van Gogh’s Arles & Gala Evening at Duchy of Uzès – June 2, 2016
We are docked at Arles, a city made famous by Vincent Van Gogh. Before Van Gogh, the Romans had left their mark here, just as they did throughout the Rhône Valley, and Arles was no exception.
During our sightseeing tour of the city, we saw several impressive Roman monuments, which stand as testament to the presence of the Romans in this area. One of the most striking structures is the ancient arena, where gladiators once fought. Remarkably, this arena is still in use today, hosting various performances and bullfights.
As we strolled through the city, our local guide brought Van Gogh’s legacy to life by pointing out locations immortalized in his masterpieces. Of particular note was an outdoor restaurant, now beautifully renovated This very spot was the subject of his iconic painting, Café Terrace at Night. We stopped by the Hotel Dieu where Van Gogh spent time recovering from a nervous breakdown. Today it is known as Espace Van Gogh. We walked through the garden which now mirrors the one that appears in one of his paintings of the place. One other place that we visited was the Trinquetaille Bridge from where Van Gogh painted many views.
Later in the afternoon, we visited the Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles, a non-profit foundation dedicated to the work and legacy of Vincent van Gogh. The foundation showcased a number of his paintings. We were unsure whether these works belonged to the foundation or were on loan from other museums, but their presence was undeniably impactful.
In the evening, we traveled by bus to the Duchy d’Uzès, a medieval city dating back to the 11th century, often referred to as the “First Duchy of France,” for a special evening at the Château Ducal d’Uzès.
Our visit to the château was a captivating journey through history. We admired the castle’s stunning architecture, which blends medieval, Renaissance, and classical styles. As the residence of the Dukes of Uzès—one of France’s oldest noble families—the château boasts notable features such as its imposing tower, elegant Renaissance facades, and beautifully landscaped gardens, and a private chapel.
Following a tour of the château’s interior, we enjoyed an elegant dinner in the wine cellar, now beautifully converted into a dining room.
Medieval Avignon & Roman Pont du Gard – June 3, 2016
A backlog of ships at one of the locks on the Rhône prompted a change of plans for our trip to Avignon today.This was very likely the fallout from the torrential rains that Paris received yesterday, causing the Louvre to evacuate its treasures from the basement to higher floors. As our riverboat could not arrive at Avignon on time, we had to travel by bus instead for our visit to medieval Avignon, which served as the seat of the Catholic Church in the 1300s and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Although the fortified city of Avignon was undoubtedly a pleasant place before the 14th-century popes arrived, it was they who truly put it on the map. These popes, who spent less than a century here when Rome became “tedious” for them, cultivated the local wine industry (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).
Our guided tour of the Palais des Papes took us through its grand halls and private chapels, displaying the opulence and power of the 14th-century papacy. We marveled at the Gothic architecture, intricate frescoes, and the vast banquet halls where the popes once entertained dignitaries from across Europe.
After some leisurely time in Avignon on our own and a quick lunch, we drove to visit the Pont du Gard, a stunning Roman aqueduct over the River Gardon that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As we walked along the structure, we marveled at its sheer size, a testament to the engineering skill of the Roman Empire.
A Day in Provence: Exploring Roussillon and Savoring Local Wines – June 5, 2016
This morning, we ventured deeper into Provence to visit the yellow-and-brown town of Roussillon in the Luberon region.
On our way, we made a memorable stop at the hilltop village of Gordes for a panoramic view and photo opportunity. Renowned as one of the most beautiful villages in France, its stone buildings perched gracefully on cliffs, offer sweeping views of Provence valley making it a photographer’s dream.
Our tour of Roussillon was a tapestry of colors and history. We followed the Ochre Trail, a walking path to the old quarry for insights on why the town’s livelihood was once so dependent on this colorful pigment. As we strolled through the narrow streets of the town, which sits in the middle of one of the world’s largest deposits of ochre, we were captivated by the unique architecture, which was reflected in the facades of its buildings, their subtle colors offset with brightly painted shutters.
After lunch onboard the ship, we visited one of the renowned wineries in the region for a tour of its cellars and a tasting of some of its vintages. The winemaker began with a brief history of the winery, highlighting the unique characteristics that make this wine region so special. As we sampled the various wines, he described each vintage in detail, sharing insights into their distinct flavors and aromas. Famously, he proclaimed, “The best wine is the wine you like,” a reminder that personal preference is paramount in the enjoyment of wine. After a short walk around the winery, taking in the gorgeous views of the surrounding areas, we returned to our ship.
Final Day of Our Rhône River Cruise – June 5, 2016
We are docked at the twin cities of Tournon-sur-Rhône and Tain l’Hermitage for the final day of our Rhône River cruise.
This morning, we journeyed to Valence, a major hub for fresh Rhône Valley produce and home to some of France’s finest chefs. We visited a local Michelin-awarded gastronomic restaurant and cooking school. After donning white aprons, we were divided into small groups to experience a series of demonstrations and tastings involving wine and cheese. We learned how seasonal ingredients, contrasting flavors, and time-tested techniques can combine to create mouth-watering local specialties. After the demonstration, we had to recreate one of the dishes. We made a poached egg sprinkled with tomato seasoning and acquitted ourselves quite well.
Next, we went on a guided tour of Tain l’Hermitage on the left bank of the Rhône, renowned for its vineyards and exquisite wines. After a short walkabout in the town and a stroll through picturesque vineyards, we stopped at the renowned Valrhona chocolatier shop and indulged ourselves in tasting delicious artisanal chocolates.
After lunch, we walked over the bridge to Tournon-sur-Rhône, on the right side of Rhône. We explored historic landmarks, wandered through quaint streets, and admired the stunning views of the Rhône River. The tour also included a visit to the impressive 16th-century Château de Tournon.
In the evening, we celebrated the end of a remarkable river cruise with the Captain’s farewell reception and dinner aboard the ship as we headed back to Lyon.
Au Revoir – June 6, 2016
We said au revoir to Lyon and boarded a train to Charles de Gaulle Airport for our flight home.
