Arrival to Stockholm – July 20, 2023
We arrived at Stockholm’s Arlanda airport this morning after a smooth and pleasant flight on SAS. Customs and immigration were effortless. Driving into the city, the lush and pristine surroundings stood out. Surprisingly, we were able to check into our hotel, Reisen, a Hyatt property, at 7 AM.
In the morning, we explored Gamla Stan, the medieval old town, passing by landmarks such as the Royal Palace, Stockholm Cathedral, Riddarholmen Church, and museums like the Nobel Prize Museum. The pleasant weather drew a lively crowd of tourists.
Later in the day, we took part in a food tour, starting at Ostermalms Saluhall, a historic food hall. Tastings included cheeses with cloudberry jam, smoked meats such as elk, reindeer, and moose, meatballs with lingonberry sauce, fish soup, smoked salmon, herring, shrimp, and an array of sweets like licorice and chocolate balls. The tour concluded at a Fika restaurant for coffee and a cinnamon bun, highlighting the importance of communal breaks for building connections.
Our fellow tour participants, coming from Montreal, Germany, and the United States, added to the interesting experience.
Strolling Through Gamla Stan & Visit to Vasa Museum – July 21, 2023
Today, our exploration of Gamla Stan began with a meeting under a chestnut tree with our guide, Samuel, and a couple from Colorado. We proceeded to Stortorget, the Grand Square, home to the Nobel Prize Museum housed in the former Stock Exchange building. Notably, decisions for all Nobel Prize categories, except the Peace Prize, are made in this historic square. Stortorget is also the site of the Stockholm Bloodbath, marked by white stone patches on a building opposite the well in the center of the square.
During the tour, we visited the narrowest street, the executioner’s digs, George and his dragon, and observed placards on houses that guided firemen in protecting important buildings. A highlight was the visit to the small iron boy statue behind the Finnish Church, created by Swedish artist Liss Eriksson in 1954.
Post-tour, we explored Stockholm Palace, marveling at the royal jewels, chapel, and staterooms. Later, we joined fellow travelers for an expedition to the Vasa Museum, showcasing the remarkably well-preserved 17th-century warship salvaged 333 years after sinking on its maiden voyage.
Our evening concluded with dinner at Fem Små Hus, a restaurant spread across five small houses. The standout was the delicious bread with a distinct malt flavor, wheat berries, and walnuts.
Exploring Stockholm’s Cultural and Historical Marvels – July 22, 2023
This morning, we drove through Stockholm, stopping at an elevated point on the opposite bank to enjoy a panoramic view of the city. Despite the impressive scenery, ongoing construction work for a new subway was evident. Our next destination was Stockholm City Hall, a remarkable structure made of 8 million bricks. The Blue Hall, though named as such, is actually constructed of red brick and serves as the venue for Nobel laureates’ dinners. The adjacent Golden Hall features stunning mosaics and hosts dancing during these events. The building also functions as a workspace for politicians and officials and is a site for wedding ceremonies.
Continuing our exploration, we drove through Embassy Row and visited various museums before heading to Gamla Stan to see the changing of the guards, an impressive spectacle with guards clad in uniforms mirroring the colors of the Swedish flag. Post-tour, we stopped at a souvenir shop to purchase a Dalahorse, a painted wooden horse from the Dalarna district, originally a status symbol. These horses gained popularity after the 1939 New York Expo.
Our next stop was Stockholm Cathedral, formerly St. Nicolas Church, dating back to the 1200s. Now a Lutheran church, it houses an ebony and silver altar. Notable features include a well-preserved statue of St. George slaying a dragon and a painting depicting the Parhelion phenomenon of April 20, 1535, forecasting the end of the world. The latter played a role in the conversion from Catholicism to Lutheranism, orchestrated by Olaus Petri, a reformer and preacher at the church.
Copenhagen: Royal Palaces to Tivoli Gardens – July 23, 2023
This morning, bidding farewell to Stockholm, we flew to Copenhagen, arriving to rainy weather. Our initial stop was Christiansborg Palace, where we enjoyed a traditional Danish lunch at the Tower restaurant, featuring salmon and roast beef open sandwiches. Post-lunch, we explored the palace’s reception rooms, marveling at chandeliers, Flora Danica service porcelain, tapestries commemorating Queen Margarethe’s 50th birthday, and cultural treasures, including works by Hans Christian Andersen.
The palace houses the Danish Parliament, though we didn’t tour the offices or fortunately encounter politicians. Unfortunately, we missed the chance to climb to the top of the Tower. In the evening, despite the rain, we ventured to Tivoli Gardens, the world’s second oldest amusement park, celebrating its 180th anniversary. The rainy weather dampened the adventure. The gardens are beautifully manicured and the rides looked interesting. Tomorrow holds the promise of a drier day.
Exploring Danish History: Frederiksborg Castle and More – July 24, 2023
Despite the prediction of a drier day, it was a rainy morning in Copenhagen as we embarked on a journey to North Zealand, where the majestic Frederiksborg Castle stands in Hillerød. Once burned by King Frederik IV’s ill-fated fireplace incident, the castle was resurrected with support from the Carlsberg beer founder. Fortunate to enjoy a private viewing before opening to public, we marveled at the exquisite chapel, and an organist practicing made viewing all the more enjoyable.
We strolled through the historic rooms, including the site of the infamous fire, and admired the opulent ballroom with its stunning ceiling. The castle showcased paintings of the current royal family, capturing moments of regal history.
Our exploration continued with a brief stop at Fredensborg, another castle owned by Frederik IV, serving as the Danish royal family’s seasonal residence. A quick photo opportunity allowed us to glimpse the grandeur of this royal home.
En route to our hotel, we stopped to admire the iconic Little Mermaid statue. A ballet dancer initially chosen as the model declined due to the requirement to pose nude, leading to the sculptor’s wife stepping in. Despite her loveliness, the mermaid appears forlorn and occasionally falls victim to vandalism.
Our day concluded with a delightful lunch at Gamle Humleboek Kro, an old country inn—the last of its kind. Indulging in open-faced sandwiches featuring two types of herring, we savored a taste of traditional Danish cuisine amidst the backdrop of history.
This afternoon we went on a canal ride viewing landmarks and architectural gems like Amalienborg Palace, the Little Mermaid, the Opera House, the Black Diamond Library (an extension of the Royal Library), the spiral-towered Church of Our Savior and the Christianshavn neighborhood.
For dinner, we enjoyed a nouvelle cuisine experience at Nimb Brasserie. The starter was scallops with peas and radish and lots of flowers and shoots. The main course was cod with a butter sauce and also lots of flowers and microgreens and asparagus. Dessert was a quenelle of buttermilk ice cream with lots of berries and a mix of little other things.
Scenic Tranquility and Musical Heritage in Bergen – July 25, 2023
After checking out of Radisson in Copenhagen, we flew to Bergen, Norway’s third-largest city. On arrival in the rainy city, we made our way to the Edvard Grieg Museum in Troldhaugen. Edvard and his wife Nina lived here for 22 years, and he composed many of his best-known works in the red hut that overlooks a stretch of water called Nordåsvannet. Both Edvard and Nina are buried on the grounds. As it started pouring, we took shelter in Troldsalen, a concert hall overlooking the red hut and Nordåsvannet, to enjoy a piano recital by Håkon Skogstad, featuring Edvard’s notable works.
The repertoire included March of the Trolls, Nocturne, Scherzo-Impromtu, two pieces originally written for songs (I Love Thee and Cradle Song) and Wedding Day at Troldhaugen. Our journey through the museum revealed a peculiar detail—Edvard, plagued by stage fright, never performed without first rubbing the head of a little frog displayed in the music room.
From Troldhaugen, we proceeded to our harbor-side hotel, the Clarion, nestled between St. Mary’s, a church dating back to the 1100s, and Rosencrantz’s Tower, once the Harbor master’s office. A leisurely stroll around the harbor brought us to the old Fish Market, culminating in a quiet evening.
Bergen’s Historic Sites and Culinary Journey – July 26, 2023
Led by a towering Dutch guide, our morning tour was in two parts. First, we explored the hotel vicinity, passing landmarks like St. Mary’s, the first public baths, and the Hansen house linked to the discovery of leprosy. The tour continued through the UNESCO World Heritage site, showcasing the preserved area where Hanseatic merchants once traded. Restoration, a meticulous process done by hand, is crucial due to the houses’ proximity to the water table.
Later, a bus ride through Bergen led us to the Fantoft stave church, a reconstruction following a 1992 arson incident. These medieval wooden churches, few in number and mostly in Norway, feature intriguing pagoda-like exteriors and a simple, wood-scented interior. On the outside of this church embedded in one of the staves, is a small piece of stone from Via Delarosa, a touchstone for good luck.
In the afternoon, we went to the top of the mountain via the funicular (Fløibanen) for an aerial view of Bergen, even spotting the unique Elgar Concert Hall shaped like a concert piano. Later in the evening, we took a private ferry ride to Cornelius, renowned as Norway’s premier seafood restaurant. Serving a meteorologically-based menu, we indulged in a crab croquette starter, various clams and scallops, a cod main course, and a berry dessert. The restaurant’s owner, a 70+ year-old deep-sea diver and oyster farmer, shared the journey of building Cornelius, a culinary gem in business for over two decades.
Scenic Odyssey to Fjords and a Lesson in Norwegian History- July 27, 2023
This morning, our journey north to Førde marked our first encounter with the awe-inspiring fjords. Crossing the majestic Sognefjord from Oppedal to Lavik via ferry, the entire bus of 41 embarked on a picturesque adventure. After a buffet lunch at the Sunnfjord Hotel in Førde, we continued our scenic route to Loen, for a two-night stay at Hotel Alexandra. Our room, facing the fjord with its enchanting view, defies description.
Just before dinner we had a lecture on 10,000 years of Norwegian history by local expert Olav Faleide. His humor and insights into “Who are the Norwegians? What have they been doing? Why are they here?” kept us engaged. Surprisingly, we learned that Norwegians are eternally chasing glaciers. The day concluded with a buffet dinner.
Glacier Expedition and Cultural Discoveries in Loen – July 28, 2023
Today all is bright and sunny. We are off to chase glaciers. Transport cars took us to Briksdal Glacier, where Christabel opted for a downhill walk. The glacier and all the waterfalls on the way are beautiful, but there are visible signs that the glacier is shrinking. After lunch, we visited a farm called Aabrek Gård where we sampled Norwegian waffles with local jams. We also explored one of the iconic little red cabins dotting the region. On the way back to the Alexandra, we stopped at a little church and looked at the list of people in the region who lost their lives during the two landslides that occurred in the area. There is a very old Celtic cross in the churchyard which predates the church. These crosses were planted in areas that had missionary activity but no church. Our day ended with a cable car ride to a mountain vantage point, offering views of paragliders and a Ponant ship anchored in the fjord.
Scenic Marvels from Dalsnibba to Ålesund – July 29, 2023
This morning, our journey led us to the summit of Dalsnibba, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and the fjord below. A leisurely ferry ride to Hellesylt followed, spanning the vast expanse of the Geirangerfjord, one of the longest, deepest, and most scenic fjords in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After disembarking in Hellesylt and continuing by coach, we passed more fjords, small farms, and cascading waterfalls, all set against the stunning backdrop of the Sunnmøre Alps. Another ferry ride brought us to Ålesund, a town with a remarkable history. The town was razed by fire and rebuilt in the elegant Art Nouveau style.
Discovering Ålesund – July 30, 2023
Picturesque Ålesund is the most important fishing harbor in Norway, situated on seven islands on the Atlantic coast and linked by an intricate network of tunnels, carved out of granite.
This morning we embarked on a guided tour of the city with a local expert to explore the rich history of Ålesund. The city’s wealth of historic Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) structures, predominantly erected between 1904 and 1907, after a fire had destroyed many of the community’s buildings, making Ålesund one of Norway’s leading repositories of Jugenstil architecture today. Following the city tour, a bus ride through the tunnels took us to some of the surrounding islands for a gorgeous view of the surrounding landscape. Later in the afternoon while Christabel rested, Albert ventured out again to walk 418 steps up from the city park to Fjellstua, the famous viewpoint over the city, for the best panoramic view of Ålesund
Oslo: An Introduction to the City – July 31, 2023
The day began with our departure from the hotel and a flight to Oslo. Upon arriving at Gardemoen airport, we embarked on a bus tour of the city, experiencing a heavy downpour during lunch at Louise restaurant in the Aker Brygge wharf area. Aker Brygge, once a shipyard, now stands as a trendy residential and commercial district. In the afternoon, we explored the Fram museum, boarding the wooden ship used by Fridtjof Nansen in early polar expeditions. The visit provided insights into life in the frigid north. Later, we checked into the historic Grand Hotel Oslo and walked to the Royal Palace and strolled through its gardens in the evening. We had dinner at an Indian restaurant called Masala Politics. Despite its name, the food was good and we met the proprietor, an elderly Sikh man and a long-time resident of Norway.
Exploring Oslo’s Rich Culture – August 1, 2023
Our day in Oslo began with a delightful breakfast at the Grand Café, a favorite haunt of Henrick Ibsen and Edvard Munch. On the walls are three paintings of the café’s most frequent patrons by Per Krogh and Ibsen’s favorite table is always set up with an open-faced sandwich, beer, and aquavit.
Our journey continued to the Vigeland Sculpture Park, showcasing over 200 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland, including the Fountain, Monolith, and a bridge adorned with expressive human figures engaged in various activities.
Our next stop was the Historic Museum, where we saw Viking artifacts, swords, gold coins, and a fascinating collection of Egyptian and Roman relics.
In the afternoon, a visit to the Munch Museum provided a dose of modern art, featuring three of the iconic versions of “The Scream.” However, viewing these fragile cardboard artworks in a dimly lit room filled with eager visitors is both challenging and frustrating. Each painting is lit for about 30 minutes while the other two are always in the dark. The whole experience of seeing all three versions makes you want to scream!
Our day concluded with a memorable farewell dinner, marking the end of our Oslo adventure.
Homeward Bound – August 2, 2023
We said goodbye to Norway and flew back home on SAS.
