Newark to Doha – January 9, 2023
We departed from Newark Airport on Sunday midnight and reached Doha late Monday night after a seemingly long flight. The journey was smooth until immigration, where an issue with Christabel’s fingerprints caused a delay. Despite efforts and instructions from the officer and Albert, it took the supervisor’s intervention for her to exit. The airport impressed us, featuring attractions like the Urs Fischer yellow teddy bear. Despite the late hour, people were eager to take selfies. Derek and Cheryl, whom we hadn’t seen since Lizanne’s graduation in 2016, warmly welcomed us and provided our first glimpse of Doha as they drove us to their house in the early morning hours
Doha: A Day of Adventures and Lusail City’s Architectural Marvels– January 10, 2023
After enjoying a delicious dosa breakfast, we embarked on a shopping excursion at Safari Mall, exploring various jewelry shops. After returning home for a leisurely lunch and catching up on family gossip, we ventured out in the evening for a drive through the impressive locales of Lusail City and Pearl Island.
Lusail City, the second-largest city in Qatar, amazed us with its newly built structures, including an iconic horseshoe-shaped building in the marina. This architectural marvel houses the luxurious Fairmont Hotel and the renowned Raffles establishment. The evening’s highlight was a drive through a lively strip mall featuring burger joints, coffee shops, and ice cream parlors—a popular hangout for the younger crowd, socializing in groups with music blaring and horns echoing in the air.
Pearl Island, built over a historic pearl diving site, held significance for Qatar’s history. Before the era of oil, pearl diving was integral to the local economy until cultured pearls led to its decline. The island is marked by a striking pearl monument, shaped like a colossal open oyster shell with a massive pearl at its center, commemorating the importance of pearl diving in Qatar’s heritage.
Discovering Doha – January 11, 2023
Breakfast this morning was an egg and flatbread specialty that Cheryl and Albert went to pick up. After breakfast, we explored various attractions in Doha, including the Katara Cultural Village, the Corniche, and Al Waqrah Souq, where we enjoyed Karak Chai, a popular strong tea. Our visit to the Place Vendome Mall in Lusail featured high-end shops and dancing fountains, providing a glimpse of luxury. In the afternoon, Cousin Joan’s daughter Joanne and her family visited, adding a pleasant touch to the day.
In the evening, we explored the Gold Souq, marveling at traditional Arab wedding jewelry, and the D’Limas bought me a gorgeous handmade blue-and-white enamel and gold bracelet. Our journey continued to Souq Waqif, a historic souq rebuilt to resemble its original form, where we enjoyed a Persian dinner at Parisa. The Persian ambiance added to the Arabian Nights feel, and the food was outstanding. We concluded the evening with a stop at Al Aker, a sweets store, to savor Knafeh, a traditional Arab dessert featuring spun pastry soaked in sugar syrup, layered with cheese, and sprinkled with nuts.
Our final day in Doha: Shopping & Sightseeing – January 12, 2023
Today marked our final day in Doha before a return in about a week, featuring a packed itinerary of shopping, sightseeing, and culinary delights. In the morning, we navigated a challenging decision-making process to select jewelry from a shop scouted on Tuesday at the Safari Mall. The abundance of choices presented a delightful dilemma of baubles, time constraints, and riyals.
In the afternoon, we had the pleasure of meeting Cheryl’s nephew, a Canadian basketball player associated with a local team. Our journey continued with a stop at a bookstore, where Christabel purchased some books, followed by a delightful Thai family dinner at the Sheraton Hotel. On the way back home, we strolled around a marina, indulging in yacht admiration and attempting to offset the culinary indulgences of the past three days.
Arrival in Muscat – January 13, 2023
This morning, we embarked on our Arabian adventure, flying to Muscat, Oman. It wasn’t until early afternoon that we reached the Shangri-La Al Husn, a resort on the Arabian Sea that is so labyrinthian that one needs a map or GPS to navigate around the premises. In the evening, we had the pleasure of meeting our fellow travelers, and our welcome dinner unfolded on the beach, creating a truly magical experience.
Muscat Sightseeing – January 14, 2023
Today began with our departure from the Shangri-La, taking us on a fascinating journey through Muscat. Our first destination was the Al Alam Palace in the historic Old Town, flanked by two Portuguese forts, revealing a surprising historical chapter of Portuguese presence in Oman. The guide shared a captivating story about the fall of one fort, underscoring the historical interaction between Indians and Omanis in the 1600s.
Our next visit was to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, notable for allowing non-Muslim visitors into the prayer hall. Inaugurated in 2001, the mosque, constructed with Indian sandstone, impressed with its stunning dome, Persian carpet, stained glass windows, and chandeliers. After a guided tour of ablutions, we explored the Royal Opera House, built by Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said, showcasing rare musical instruments and hosting renowned performers. The Royal Opera House, representative of modern Omani architecture, showcased a rich musical history with performances by artists like Placido Domingo and Andrea Bocelli.
Our final stop, the Muttrah Souk, offered a maze of bustling markets with diverse offerings, from fruits and spices to clothing, jewelry, and traditional scents like frankincense and myrrh. The day concluded with our embarkation on the Ponant ship Le Bougainville, captained by Frédéric Guilmin, marking the beginning of the next phase of our Arabian adventure.
Coastal delights & Fujairah Fort – January 15, 2023
Today, we explored Fujairah on the east coast of the UAE, known for its vibrant Friday market, although it’s open every day of the week.
Our next destination was the Sheikh Zayed Mosque, an architectural marvel reminiscent of Istanbul’s Blue Mosque. Boasting 65 domes and six minarets, the mosque can accommodate up to 28,000 people. Unfortunately, we couldn’t enter but marveled at its grandeur from the outside.
Post-lunch, we visited the Al-Bidya Mosque, the oldest in the UAE, dating back to the 1400s. Constructed with mud and stone, it features four domes of varying sizes supported by a central pillar. Navigating through the tight space, we observed people engaged in prayer and explored the mosque’s two watchtowers at the back.
Our final stop was Fujairah Fort, the oldest and largest fort in the country, dating back to the 16th century. Comprising three round towers, a square tower, a central hall, houses, and a mosque, the fort served as the residence of the royal family. In 1808-1810, it housed the Wahhabists during a Muslim revivalist movement. In 1925, the British ship HMS Lawrence bombarded the fort to enforce an anti-slavery policy, damaging three guard towers. These towers were subsequently restored in 2000, preserving the historical significance of Fujairah Fort.
Musandam Fjords and Oman Mountains by 4WD – January 16, 2023
This morning, we arrived at Khasab, situated in the north of Oman on the Musandam peninsula, close to Iran. Often dubbed the “Norway of Arabia” for its fjord-like inlets and mountains, Khasab has historical roots dating back to the early 17th century when the Portuguese built it to supply their ships with dates and water for the Strait of Hormuz.
Driving up the steep and winding limestone hills of the Hajar mountains in a 4WD, we encountered a landscape dotted with freely roaming goats and occasional cascades seeping from the limestone. Despite the barren appearance, vegetation thrives, with trees on mountain slopes and hidden water sources.
In the afternoon, we explored the 17th-century Khasab Castle, originally built by the Portuguese. The castle features a watchtower, central tower, battlements, and arrow slits for musketeers and archers. Inside, intriguing exhibits showcase various aspects of life, including clothes, a Quran school, a wedding tableau, kitchen equipment, weapons, pottery, fishing, seafaring, traditional medicine, women’s jewelry, Judge’s chambers, and a traditional elevated summer house.
Before dinner, we enjoyed the Bedouin musical performance “Wahaiba,” featuring a war-like dance accompanied by drums and poetry chanting in a local tribal dialect. The performers, clad in Bedouin garb, created a captivating half-circle atmosphere.
Post-dinner, a piano recital by Elena Koreneva, featuring works by Greig, Mendelssohn, Liszt, and Saint Saens, unfolded. Despite the musician’s mastery and effort, the sparsely attended recital highlighted the missed opportunity for more passengers to appreciate the performance on the Ponant ship.
Onwards to Doha – January 17, 2023
Today was initially planned as a full day of sailing, but the captain announced early this morning that someone on the ship required hospital attention. As a result, we would be arriving in Doha much earlier than scheduled. While Albert and others from the ship went to visit Souq Waqif, I opted to stay on the ship.
Doha – Horses, Art & Cultural Immersion – January 18, 2023
This morning, we explored Al Shaqab, the equestrian center where the royal family stables their horses. Part of the Qatar Foundation, dedicated to preserving Arabian culture, the center is remarkable. We witnessed horses being groomed, exercised, and even swimming in a long pool. The impeccably clean stalls, adorned with Islamic motifs, housed both older and younger horses.
Named after a historic 1893 battle for Qatari independence, the center focuses on breeding Arabian racehorses and developing young equestrians. From the center, we drove through the city to see much of which we had already seen with Derek and Cheryl, and then had lunch at an outdoor café in the Medina Central area of The Pearl.
Our next stop was the National Museum of Qatar, housed in the restored palace of Sheikh Abullah bin Jassim Al Thani. Designed by Jean Nouvel, the museum tells Qatar’s story, highlighting its people, flora, fauna, geology, and occupations.
The final visit was to the Museum of Islamic Art, designed by I.M. Pei on a man-made island. With four floors showcasing Islamic art spanning 1400 years, the museum impressed with its diverse collection. Although time constraints led to a rushed exploration, the visit included artifacts like pots, jewels, manuscripts, and a warrior on horseback encased in armor. Despite challenges in navigating the museum, we made a brief stop at the gift shop in search of a book on Islamic art for Albert’s brother.
A day well spent in Abu Dhabi – January 19, 2023
Today in Abu Dhabi, the political capital of UAE, our itinerary includes a visit to the Abu Dhabi Falcon Hospital, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, and a choice between Qasr Al Watan and the Louvre.
The Abu Dhabi Falcon Hospital, dedicated to the welfare of falcons, treats over 10,000 falcons annually. Our visit included a lecture on falcons, a view of them flying in an enormous bird cage, and observing surgeries in an operating theater. The group then had lunch at a local restaurant before heading to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, where security checks and a crowded atmosphere made it challenging to fully appreciate the magnificent architecture.
Albert visited Qasr Al Watan, the opulent Presidential Palace, while I opted for the Abu Dhabi Louvre. Albert found Qasr Al Watan impressive, with its stunning architecture and features like the House of Knowledge and Spirit of Collaboration. In contrast, my experience at the Louvre Abu Dhabi, designed by Jean Nouvel, was less satisfying. Despite expectations to see Leonardo da Vinci’s St. John the Baptist, the rushed atmosphere and difficulty in locating the painting overshadowed the visit. The Louvre Abu Dhabi, part of France’s significant cultural project overseas, has become the most visited museum in the Arab world since its inauguration in 2017.
Wildlife & Island Beaches – January 20, 2023
We find ourselves on Sir Bani Yas Island, a bird sanctuary and wildlife refuge that, after years of conservation and ecological efforts, now houses approximately 16,000 animals and boasts millions of trees and plants. Our hour-long safari allowed us to see giraffes, ostriches, gazelles, oryx, hyrax, cheetahs, and peacocks. Although the island is rich in archaeological sites, such as an early Christian monastery, regrettably, we couldn’t explore these during our visit.
Later in the afternoon, we enjoyed a beach picnic.
Al Fahidi Walking Tour and More – January 21, 2023
This morning, we arrived in Dubai and had a packed schedule exploring the city. Our first stop was the Al Fahidi neighborhood in Old Dubai, where we visited the Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Heritage Center for Cultural Understanding. Guided by a local, we explored a mosque and a traditional house, sampling coffee and snacks offered to visitors. We wandered through the narrow alleys, marveling at centuries-old houses with wind towers. Crossing the Dubai Creek by boat, we reached the Spice and Gold Souqs, indulging in stuffed dates at the Spice Souq and admiring the numerous gold shops in the Gold Souq.
Returning to the ship for lunch and to prepare for disembarkation, we also geared up for the Captain’s Farewell dinner. The day included a captivating lecture on Chopin, complemented by pianist Elena Koreneva’s performance of some of his well-known pieces.
An architectural perspective of Dubai and a desert safari – January 22, 2023
This morning, we were treated to a talk by a German architect on Dubai’s architecture and urban development. Subsequently, he and his business partner guided us on an insightful tour of various iconic buildings. After the tour, we headed to Dubai Marina for lunch, with a view of the stage where Beyoncé had performed a private concert at the Dubai Atlantis Royal the previous night. In the afternoon, we checked into the Palace Hotel Downtown Dubai.
Later in the evening, we ventured into the desert, embarking on a vintage Land Rover tour to a Bedouin camp for dinner, traditional music, and dancing.
Burj Khalifa and a special farewell evening – January 23, 2023
This morning, we explored the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest free-standing building. Taking an express elevator to the Sky Observation Deck at 2,717 feet, we enjoyed a breathtaking 360-degree view of the city. The visit was seamlessly orchestrated. Later, we explored local malls.
In the evening, we gathered for a group farewell on the hotel’s terrace, offering a spectacular view of the Burj, the sound and light show, and the Dubai fountains. The captivating show occurs every 30 minutes from 6 pm to 11 pm daily, leaving us in awe, pondering how local residents endure the nightly spectacle.
Our last day in Dubai – January 24, 2023
On our final day in Dubai, we devoted most of our time to exploring malls, strolling through the neighborhood, and packing. In the evening, we enjoyed a delightful dinner with my school chum, Jenny Vaz, relishing the opportunity to catch up.
Farewell to Dubai – January 25, 2023
We bid farewell to Dubai and boarded our Turkish Airlines flight back to Newark. Travel inconveniences followed us, including issues with luggage at the Dubai airport, where a ticket agent initially charged us incorrectly but later corrected the error for frequent fliers. Upon arriving in Newark, our bags were among the last on the carousel, despite being among the first to complete immigration. The joys of travel!
