Drive to Montreal – October 1, 2023
Today, we enjoyed a smooth drive to Montreal, appreciating the clear skies and autumn foliage as we traveled through upstate New York. Despite light traffic, our arrival at the apartment building posed a challenge as we circled in search of the garage. Eventually locating it, we faced another hurdle entering the apartment using the provided code, taking over an hour to settle in.
The apartment’s prime location, directly across from St. Patrick’s Basilica, added charm to our stay. The basilica, with historical ties to Irish immigrants, illuminated its Rose Window at night, providing a divine view from our living room.
In the evening, we explored Chinatown, entering from La Gauchetière Street. The vibrant area featured a Chinese Catholic Church, along with numerous restaurants, patisseries, souvenir shops, and herbal remedy stores. Our dinner at Chez Chili, a crowded basement restaurant, was a delightful experience, with the chef even stopping by to greet us.
Montreal: A Day of Exploration from Old Charm to Modern Marvels – October 2, 2023
This morning, we embarked on a bus tour led by guide Jean Bernard, who shared insights into Montreal’s old and new surroundings, intertwined with anecdotes from his experiences in the film industry. Notable stops included Olympic Park, McGill University, the affluent Westmount area, the less affluent Griffintown (historically settled by Irish immigrants escaping the potato famine), the Waterfront, Notre Dame Basilica undergoing renovations, the Jacques-Cartier Bridge, and Mount Royal Park, designed by Frederick Olmstead.
In the evening, we explored an underground shopping area in the World Trade Centre, featuring a fragment of the Berlin Wall gifted to Montreal in 1992. Dinner at Bouillon Bilk offered creative and tasty vegetarian and non-vegetarian options, though some may find the abundance of raw meat/fish dishes notable. Despite this, the restaurant was bustling, even on a Monday night.
Montreal: From Underground Shops to Timeless Landmarks – October 3, 2023
Christabel woke up at 6 AM to attend mass at St. Patrick’s but found the doors locked and the schedule changed. Disappointed, we explored the underground shops before joining a walking tour of Old Montreal with guide Francoise Béby. The tour began at Place d’Armes square, featuring Notre Dame Basilica, the Maisonneuve Monument, Saint Suplice Seminary, the Bank of Montreal, and the Pug and Poodle sculpture. Noteworthy were the statues of Jeanne Mance and the unique two-part sculpture with elongated-nosed figures.
Continuing to Pointe-à-Callière, the history museum, we learned about Montreal’s diverse immigrant history, from French and English to Irish, Chinese, Jewish, Italian, and more. We visited the statue of Marguerite Bourgeoys, Canada’s first saint, and explored Vaquelin Square, Jacques Cartier Square, and the Govenor’s Garden at Chateau Ramezay.
Our tour concluded at Bonsecours Market and Sailors’ Chapel, the oldest in Montreal, dating back to 1655. In the evening, we returned to lively Chinatown for dinner at Chez Chili, enjoying great food despite somewhat slow service.
Drive to Quebec City – October 4, 2023
Today, we traveled to Quebec City, starting the day with packing, cleaning, and breakfast before hitting the road. The weather was bright and hot, reminiscent of the Carolinas but without the humidity. Our rented apartment on rue Saint Marie, close to downtown, is in an old building with Ikea-style decor and impeccable cleanliness, a vast improvement from our experience in Montreal.
In the afternoon, we explored the old town, strolling up to Chateau Frontenac and walking along the boardwalk. Despite having visited twice before, including during Hurricane Katrina in 2005, we found it challenging to identify landmarks. Chateau Frontenac remains unchanged, undergoing a partial facelift. The evening was delightful, with a visit to the restaurant Cochon Dingue (Crazy Pig) on rue Saint-Jean for a lovely dinner.
Quebec City: Art, History, and Architectural Marvels – October 5, 2023
This morning, we toured Old Quebec starting from the waterfront where the Queen Mary 2 is docked. Old Quebec was historically a challenging area, with houses reflecting either French or British styles. Notably, yellow-bricked facades date back to the mid-1800s. During the walk, we passed by Le Buffet de l’Antiquaire, a popular Quebecois diner, and the site of the Battle of Quebec in 1775.
The streets were adorned with yellow cubes advertising Passages Insolites 2023, an exhibition featuring over 40 artists in various areas of Quebec City. Artworks included Big Other, Intertwined Double Concentric Circles, and Little Quebec by AnonyMouse. We took the funicular to the boardwalk, marveling at Chateau Frontenac, a Fairmont Hotels property, and the monument to Samuel Champlain.
Our exploration continued past numerous churches, including the Notre Dame Basilica, the only one in Quebec with a Holy Door. We walked past Aux Anciens Canadiens, a historic restaurant, and visited the Ursuline Convent, a protected building. Our tour included stops at the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, the first Anglican Church in Quebec, and City Hall, built on the site of a former Jesuit College.
Insights into the city and its people included a dislike for skyscrapers, the necessity of snow tires, efficient snow removal within 24 hours, the absence of snow days, and a relaxed dining culture where waiters don’t rush patrons out after finishing their meals.
A Day of Falls, Heritage, and Copper Artistry – October 6, 2023
This morning, we embarked on a double-decker bus ride to Montmorency Falls, appreciating its beauty despite paling in comparison to the grandeur of Iguazú Falls in Argentina and Brazil. Next, we visited Île d’Orléans, preserving its 19th-century agricultural heritage. The charming houses and farming methods focused on fruit, vegetables, dairy, and maple products, reflect the island’s French settlers’ legacy.
Our journey continued to the Albert Gilles’ Copper Museum, showcasing the legendary repoussé work in copper by Albert Gilles. Demonstrations revealed the intricate process of embossing thin copper sheets for church artifacts. The museum displayed 50 small panels depicting scenes from Christ’s life. The Basilica of Sainte Anne de Beaupré, our final stop, started as a chapel and evolved into a magnificent cathedral with beautiful stained-glass windows, gilded ceilings, and significant copper doors by Albert Gilles.
In the evening, we dined at The Hobbit, a host-recommended restaurant. The meal featured halibut rillettes for appetizers, a halibut entrée, and a delightful dessert, possibly Breton Cake with ice cream. Slightly pricey, but absolutely delicious.
Drive Home – October 7, 2023
We woke up early to pack and tidy up the apartment before saying goodbye to Quebec City. It rained all the way back to New Jersey.