When we started traveling in 2010, we used to post our travel diary with pictures on a commercial website. Unfortunately, we lost all the posted content as this website shut down without notice, leaving us scrambling to come up with a more permanent alternative.
Now that we have our own travel website, we are attempting to recreate some of the lost blogs based on notes, itineraries, Wikipedia, and good old-fashioned memory. This is one such recreation. It’s a labor of love, piecing together the adventures that shaped our lives and sharing them with you once again.
In this recreated blog, you’ll find a narrative along with pictures of a week-long curated tour of the southern part of India. From a captivating Kathakali dance performance and a serene houseboat stay in the backwaters of Alleppey, Kerala, to exploring the historic marvels of Mahabalipuram and visiting Kanchipuram, the “City of Thousand Temples,” in Tamil Nadu, we enjoyed an experience of a lifetime.
Arrival in Kochi – December 18, 2015
We flew from Goa to Kochi (formerly Cochin), arriving late in the evening. We were greeted at the airport and driven to Taj Vivanta Malabar, our home for the next three nights. Blending colonial Victorian charm and chic modern design, the hotel is a heritage property on Willingdon Island with a gorgeous view of Kerala’s backwaters.
Exploring Cherai: Journey Through History, Culture, and Coastal Beauty – December 19, 2015
We began our exploration of South India with a guided visit to the island of Cherai. Our first destination was the Azheekkal Sree Varaha Venkateswara Temple, a 19th-century temple dedicated to Lord Varaha, an avatar of Lord Vishnu, worshipped alongside Lord Venkateswara.
Next, we visited Pallippuram Fort, also known as Ayikkotta or Alikotta. Built in 1503 by the Portuguese, it stands as one of the oldest surviving European forts in India. The fort’s unique hexagonal shape and laterite stone construction mark its historic significance. Initially serving as a Portuguese military base, it was later captured and reinforced by the Dutch in 1661. In 1789, it was sold to the Kingdom of Travancore.
Our final stop before lunch was at Pallipuram Church, also known as Our Lady of Snow Church. Established by the Portuguese in 1507, it ranks among the oldest churches in the region. The church is named after the feast of Our Lady of Snow, celebrated annually on August 5th to commemorate a miraculous snowfall in Rome. The architecture, completed by the Portuguese in 1577, is a harmonious blend of European and traditional Kerala styles, featuring a simple yet elegant facade.
After visiting the historic sites, we took a leisurely walk along Cherai Beach to soak in the coastal Keralan culture before returning to the hotel for some rest and relaxation.
In the evening, we headed to a local theatre to experience Kerala’s ancient performing art, a Kathakali dance performance. Kathakali, which literally means “the art of storytelling through dance,” captivated us with its elaborate costumes, expressive gestures, and vibrant storytelling. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day.
Chinese Fishing Nets to Authentic Keralan Cuisine – December 20, 2015
Our journey began with a visit to the Jewish Synagogue, which was built in 1568 and is still an active house of worship for the few remaining Jews in the area. We then walked through Cochin’s ancient and colorful Jew Street with its antique stores to visit the St. Francis Church, which was established by the Portuguese Franciscan friars in 1503. The famed navigator Vasco Da Gama was buried in its courtyard for a few years before his remains were returned to Portugal.
After a delightful lunch and some shopping, we headed to one of Kochi’s most photogenic attractions, the Chinese fishing nets. These impressive structures, believed to have been introduced by the Chinese explorer Zhang He around 600 years ago, are a hallmark of the city’s coastline. Although we didn’t see the nets in action, the sight of them silhouetted against the setting sun, with their intricate wooden frames, offered a picturesque view.
The highlight of the evening was the delightful experience of attending a cooking demonstration and dinner at a local Keralan chef’s home. After a warm welcome, the chef demonstrated the preparation of traditional Kerala dishes using spices and local ingredients.
After the demonstration, we enjoyed the delicious home-cooked meal served on a banana leaf.
A Day and Night on Alleppey’s Backwaters – December 21, 2015
After checking out from our hotel, we drove to the backwaters, arriving at Alleppey where we boarded a houseboat, our floating hotel for the next 24 hours.
After settling in, we gently cruised through the serene waters, surrounded by lush greenery, an abundance of coconut trees, and other exotic plants creating a unique subtropical environment. The houseboat, a traditional yet well-equipped vessel, provided a cozy and comfortable retreat. As we glided through the backwaters, we couldn’t help but notice the bustling traffic of houseboats, each gracefully navigating the interconnected canals. These traditional vessels, varying in size and design, moved steadily, carrying tourists who exchanged friendly waves.
As evening approached, we stopped on the banks of one of the villages to purchase freshly caught shrimp for supper. Later in the evening, we were treated to a delicious meal of freshly prepared local cuisine by the resident chef. As the night fell, the quiet was only broken by the gentle lapping of water against the boat and the distant calls of nocturnal birds. Our cruise and overnight stay on the houseboat in the backwaters of Alleppey was an unforgettable experience.
A Day in Chennai – December 22, 2015
This morning, we disembarked from our houseboat and drove to Kochi Airport for our flight to Chennai, the final leg of our tour. Upon arrival, we were greeted by our local guide and embarked on a half-day guided city tour of Chennai, India’s third-largest city.
Our tour began with a visit to St. Mary’s Church (built between 1678 and 1680), the oldest Anglican church in India. Designed by Edward Fowle and constructed under the supervision of William Dixon, the church features solid masonry walls built to withstand bombings and cyclones. It holds significant colonial history, including notable events such as the marriage of Robert Clive and the association with Elihu Yale, co-founder of Yale University.
Next, we explored the National Art Gallery and Museum, renowned for its extensive collection of temple friezes and a remarkable bronze gallery showcasing ancient lost wax sculptures. The museum also boasts an intriguing collection of ancient coins, representing 2,500 years of India’s history.
Our final stop was Saint Thomas Cathedral (originally built in 1504 and rebuilt in neo-Gothic style in 1893). According to tradition, this church houses the remains of St. Thomas the Apostle, marking our visit to the third burial site of one of the twelve apostles. Previously, we had visited St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City, where St. Peter is believed to be buried, and the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain, the traditional burial site of St. James the Greater.
The tour concluded with a drive past the High Court, Fort St. George, and Tamil Film Studios. We then checked into the Radisson Blu Temple Bay Resort in Mahabalipuram, a luxurious seaside retreat offering stunning views of the Bay of Bengal.
Exploring the Historic Marvels of Mahabalipuram – December 23, 2015
We started our day with a guided tour of the ancient port of Mahabalipuram, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This laid-back coastal town, located south of Chennai, is renowned for its 8th-century Shore Temple and other historical marvels. Mahabalipuram served as the second capital of the Pallava Kings of Kanchipuram, the first Tamil dynasty after the fall of the Gupta empire. As we explored the ancient town, we marveled at the stunning rock-cut monuments and temples that date back to the Pallava dynasty of the 7th and 8th centuries. The intricate carvings and detailed sculptures, particularly at the Shore Temple and the Five Rathas, captivated us with their craftsmanship and artistic finesse.
After our memorable visit to the historical marvels of Mahabalipuram, we stopped at a jewelry store located conveniently within walking distance from our resort. Fascinated by the exquisite craftsmanship, Christabel couldn’t resist purchasing a couple of beautiful pieces, leaving us a few hundred dollars lighter. One of the bracelets was rather long, so the jeweler shortened it and created a pair of earrings with the leftovers and delivered them later in the evening, all for no extra charge. Now that’s service! We spent the rest of the day at leisure, strolling through the beautifully landscaped grounds and enjoying picture-perfect views of the Bay of Bengal.
Visit to the Holy City of Kanchipuram – December 24, 2015
Today, we enjoyed a guided excursion to the holy city of Kanchipuram. Known as the “City of Thousand Temples,” Kanchipuram’s rich history and religious significance were evident in its magnificent temples and ancient architecture. We explored several of these temples, including the Ekambareswarar Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, with its towering gopurams (temple domes) and intricate carvings, and the Kailasanathar Temple, one of the oldest in the city.
The city is also known for silk weaving, and Kanchi silk sarees are considered to be the finest in the world. During our visit to Kanchipuram, we had the privilege of visiting a local silk weaving family’s home. We watched in fascination as the skilled artisans meticulously worked on their looms, creating intricate patterns with colorful silk threads. The dedication and precision required for each piece of Kanchipuram silk became evident, and we gained a deep appreciation for this traditional craft.
Departure for Mumbai – December 25, 2015
We checked out from our resort and were driven to Chennai International Airport for our flight to Mumbai. In Mumbai, we plan to spend a few days shopping and visiting family and friends before flying back to the States.