Old Town Basel and Friends – September 7, 2017
We arrived in Basel after a comfortable flight on United. Checked into SwissHotel but our room was not available until 2 PM. So we walked to the old part of town, crossing over one of the bridges to the Basel Town Hall and the Munster.
After securing our room slightly after 1 PM, we met up with our Swiss friends, Markus and Monika, and drove to Solothurn and visited the Cathedral of St. Urs and St. Viktor, which is the cathedral for the Catholic Diocese of Basel. Then we walked around in Solothurn, stopping by a very nice bookstore to review their collection of English-language books.
On the way back, we stopped for a coffee at a lovely little café and sat on the sidewalk and then stopped by the cheese festival. Tasted yogurt spiced with cider. Delicious! Saw some of the wildlife, cows and lamas. Then we drove to Magden to have dinner with Markus and Monika. Amazed by how quickly Monika put together soup and veal and pasta dinner. We had a lovely dinner with them and reminisced about old times.
Visit to Insel Mainau Gardens with Friends – September 8, 2017
Today, we drove with Markus and Monika to the Insel Mainau Gardens on Lake Constance, also known as the Bodensee, in Konstanz, South Germany. These gardens were designed by Count Lennart Bernadotte, a Swedish count who forfeited his title upon marrying a commoner. Our main reason for the visit, was to see the impressive display of 12,000 dahlia plants representing 250 varieties. We also strolled through the rose garden, visited the castle shop, and explored the butterfly habitat. For lunch, we had mushroom tagliatelle with parmesan cheese. Later, we left to join the Inspire, our river boat. However, we encountered unexpected traffic delays, leading us close to Basel and then back to Germany before finally arriving in Basel again. Fortunately, the ship was docked at the St. Johannes pier which we had seen on our walk to the Munster the previous day.
The Inspire resembles many of the other ships that we have sailed on our river cruises. Dinner onboard featured a fabulous starter and delectable veal entrée. For dessert, Christabel chose pistachio ice cream, while Albert opted for rum raisin, requesting extra rum, which he generously drizzled (perhaps “drowned” is the better word) over the ice cream.
Schaffhausen Day Trip and Rhine Falls Boat Ride – September 9, 2017
This morning we got on a coach and drove for two hours to Schaffhausen. It rained all day.
Schaffhausen owed its wealth due to its proximity to the Rhein. Since the Rhein rapids were difficult to navigate, goods were offloaded at Schaffhausen, leading to the growth of the settlement. We walked through All Saints Abbey, a former Benedictine Abbey. It has a beautiful cloister, the largest in Switzerland, which leads into an herb garden. In the courtyard, is a bell with some poetry by Schiller. Schiller wrote a long poem about bells and bell making, which German students are expected to learn, according to Bettina, one of our guides.
From the abbey, we walked down the Vordergasse to see the shops and the stalls selling seasonal produce. Schaffhausen has beautiful fountains and buildings with exquisite painted facades and bay windows. We bought candy at the local Migros and had a quick lunch (chicken sausage in pastry). Then, we walked up several flights of stairs flanked by a vineyard to visit the Munot, a circular fortification high above the city. We saw a lot of deer in what might have once been a moat. On the way back to the bus, we stopped by the Allerheiligen Museum, which is on the premises of the abbey. The exhibits are organized by centuries: 1000-1500, 1500-1800, 1800-2000, etc. They include various artifacts from the town, such as market scales, the astronomical clock, and rooms from old houses and churches. Schaffhausen was bombed by the U.S. during World War II (despite Switzerland’s neutrality; it was an accident, and the U.S. paid significant restitution). This resulted in the destruction of much of the town and its heritage.
Our next stop was the Rhine Falls in Neuhausen, a place we had visited with Markus and Monika many years ago. This time, we went on a 30-minute boat ride, a new experience for us. We boarded the boat from Worth Castle, originally built to collect tolls but now serving as a boat dock, cafeteria, souvenir shop, and more, catering to tourists. During the ride, commentary provided information on various sites around the falls, including the SIG industrial complex (known for aluminum and gun manufacture), the half-timbered house, and the foam on the water. The Rhine in this area is abundant with fish, with a hatchery nearby. Additionally, close to the falls, there is a huge water wheel, suggesting the presence of a mill at some point in history.
We began the day departing from Basel and ended it in Kembs, France, after another two-hour bus ride.
Taste of France in Strasbourg – September 10, 2017
Today, we explored Strasbourg, a charming city with a rich history of being ping-ponged between France and Germany. It boasts numerous elegant mansions, bungalows, and government buildings. Since it was Sunday, most shops were closed, but we strolled through the downtown area with Anne, our guide. She suggested we try the gingerbread and kugelhoff, both of which we purchased. Albert was stunned by the €17 price tag for a slice of rum raisin gingerbread.
We climbed the 300+ stairs of the Cathedral of Notre Dame to enjoy a spectacular aerial view. Arriving around 2 PM, we were just in time to witness the astrological clock chime twice. A peasant struck the cymbal twice before moving around the front of the clock, where a soldier then assumed his position, presumably awaiting the 3 PM hour. The cathedral’s stained glass windows are truly magnificent, all original as they were taken down and hidden during wartime. When sunlight streams through them, the interior of the cathedral looks magical.
The treat of the day was a coconut macaroon.
For lunch, Christabel enjoyed quiche Lorraine with salad, while Albert opted for onion tart with salad, paired with Riesling, the region’s specialty. We strolled around the cathedral area, admiring the charming half-timbered buildings, some of which jutted out over their foundations to evade taxes, as they were only taxed based on the size of their ground floor. Christabel found a book of Alsatian recipes in English. With the weather turning pleasant after the rains in Schaffhausen, we stayed until 4 PM before catching the bus back to the ship.
We enjoyed a delicious dinner, albeit late, and were entertained by a small troupe of Alsatian performers who danced and sang and played for us.
Day Trip to the Black Forest Spa Town of Baden-Baden –September 11, 2017
We began the day with a moment of silence to honor the victims of 9/11. We also found a couple who had lost their son in the bombing of the second tower.
Today, we visited Baden-Baden. Everyone was treated to a spa visit. We were presented with a choice between a spa that accommodates nude bathers (Friedrich something or the other) and one that requires swimsuits (Caracalla). We decided to pass on this event, as neither of us had the required gear.
Baden-Baden is a pretty little city. Like Strasbourg, it has beautiful buildings, but with a classier feel as most of the nobility visited to take spa treatments. We walked through a garden designed by Countess Augusta and visited a beautiful building where one could sample the local water. Albert decided to give it a try and promptly declared it to be awful. Mark Twain is supposed to have drunk it and immediately asked for a beer. We then walked around town. Unfortunately, it kept raining on and off. We stopped by the old Roman baths. There are stones dating back to a little after the time of Christ. Afterward, we made our way to the casino, which left us impressed with its lavish gilding. We had lunch there before both of us walked up to the Stiftskirche, a Catholic church with a pink blend of Romanesque, Baroque, and Gothic architecture. However, its stained glass windows look very modern.
It continued raining, so we stopped by a coffee shop hoping to taste the Black Forest cake and the plum tart. We were only able to sample the plum tart, which was delicious. It kept on raining, so we decided to take the bus back to the ship. Once on the bus, it stopped raining, and the sun came out.
Dessert tonight was Cherries Jubilee in the lounge.
Heidelberg Castle and Town Highlights – September 12, 2017
We docked near the Technical Museum, home to a collection of trains, planes, automobiles, and more. We didn’t stop by to admire but continued on to Heidelberg. The bus dropped us off at the top, right at the castle’s entrance. This castle is renowned for housing the largest wine cask, capable of holding thousands of liters of wine. We strolled up and around the cask, thanks to the platform built for visitors. Another interesting monument is the Elizabeth Gate, commissioned by Frederick V as a birthday present for his wife, Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of King James I. Our guide informed us that this gate was erected overnight, with all the stones and decorative elements built separately before being assembled. Despite the castle’s modest height of only 300 meters, the view from the top was breathtaking. After exploring the castle, we took the funicular down to the Kornmarkt.
We went on an orientation walk of the town, starting at the Evangelical Church of the Holy Ghost. Heidelberg is one of Martin Luther’s towns and this year marks the 500th anniversary of the Reformation. Many of the churches in Heidelberg are Protestant churches. We observed mass underway to mark the start of the school year. An interesting tidbit we learned was the distinction between Catholic and Protestant weather vanes: the former has a cross, while the latter has a rooster, symbolizing Jesus’ denial three times before the cock crowed.
Following the orientation, we had lunch at a small café that has its own microbrewery. The meal comprised typical regional fare featuring sausages, cheese spaetzle, and apple strudel. After lunch, we hurried to visit the student’s prison, the University museum, and the celebration hall (requiring the assistance of a staff member to open the hall for us), along with stops at the Jesuit church and the former residence of Friedrich Ebert, architect of the Weimar Republic post-World War I. Our journey then led us to the old bridge.
The student’s prison has a fascinating history. It was a badge of honor for students to be imprisoned here. Heidelberg has a fraternity that is into protecting honor through dueling. Having scars as a result of a duel is considered a badge of honor.
The treat for today was the student’s kiss (studentenkuss), a tradition that was founded in the mid-1800’s by the Knösel family. It was a way for the male students to express to the female students they were interested in getting to know them better. The confection still crafted from the original recipe, consists of a crisp dark chocolate marzipan-coated biscuit wrapped in red tinsel paper with black silhouettes.
From Heidelberg we drove to Mannheim to get back on board our ship.
Castle Ping-Pong Along the Rhine and Boppard – September 13, 2017
We spent this morning onboard playing castle ping pong as we cruised along the Rhine. On either side of the river, we saw castles, castles, and still more castles and the famed Lorelei statue. Armin Geiger, one of our guides, provided the history of the more spectacular castles. They all look very romantic now, but living in them must have been anything but. Most are remote and some are just towers.
We arrived at Boppard around noon. Today, was the day of the Onion Market held in celebration of the fall harvest. Not a whole lot to see in this town. We visited some Roman ruins, the market square, the church of St. Severus, and the Carmelite Catholic Church. We had hoped to take a chair lift to enjoy an aerial view of the Rhine valley. However, due to the windy conditions, operations were suspended.
We continued our journey from Boppard to Koblenz, reaching the city around 8 PM. We went on a brief walk to visit Kaiser Wilhelm and the Deutsches Eck (German Corner). Here, we saw the remnants of the Berlin Wall and got a lesson on German unification. Unfortunately, the inclement weather limited our sightseeing opportunities.
Back on the ship, we enjoyed currywurst during happy hour, which was surprisingly good.
Scenic Mosel River Cruise and Reichsburg Castle – September 14, 2017
Today, we sailed on a scenic journey along the Mosel River, with breathtaking landscapes. Around 12:30 PM, we boarded a bus for Reichsburg Castle. As we climbed to the castle, it began to rain. The castle is very well maintained and we saw several rooms. In the courtyard is an extremely deep well and striking Delft tiles. On top of the castle, we saw the picture of St. Christopher, the patron saint.
We learned an intriguing linguistic distinction between berg and burg. Berg is a hill and burg is a fortification, so one can have a burg on a berg but not a berg on a burg!
Our next stop was the Schlagkamp Winery where we tasted 5 different wines. One of the Rieslings was particularly good as was the Red Peach Liqueur (Roter Weinbergspfirsich). The proprietor, Andreas, was an absolute hoot.
Lastly, it’s worth mentioning the number of campers on the banks of the Rhine and Mosel rivers. Evidently, camping is a serious business, with people renting out spaces and spending weekends at the campsites, complete with gardens and garden furniture, before returning home during the week, especially in the summer months.
Exploring Luxembourg and American Memorial Cemetery – September 15, 2017
Today, we drove to Luxembourg, a modern city with lots of bank buildings, hinting at the source of its wealth. Our first stop was Constitution Place, where we saw the iconic golden lady and the old and new bridges, along with the impressive buildings on the opposite side of the Petrusse valley. From there, we proceeded to the Cathedral of Notre Dame.
Continuing our exploration, we passed by the Grande Ducal Palace before having lunch at Paul’s on Guillaume II square. The crepes, quiche Lorraine, and pastries were excellent. They have been in operation since the late 1800’s. On the way back, the treat of the day was a Luxembourgian macaroon.
We then drove to the American Memorial Cemetery in Hamm, where over 5,000 American men and one woman (a nurse) are laid to rest, among them General Patton. We laid a wreath in the chapel on behalf of the crew and passengers of the ship, followed by a solemn ceremony with the veterans among the passengers. Hearing accounts of the Battle of the Bulge made the experience very touching.
We returned to Bernkastel late afternoon. Next, we walked up to the ruins of the Landshut castle. On the way, we saw the pointed house, which is pointed and leaning to one side. The half-timbered houses here have a very small footprint on the bottom floor and then expand on the upper floors, making them top heavy and very close to their neighbors and of course susceptible to spreading fires. The views of the Moselle and the vineyards, from the top of the castle, were very impressive. We were accompanied by Daniel, our guide and some of the veterans.
After dinner, we were entertained by a local group with German folk music and other international songs (American, British, Italian, etc.).
Trier’s Rich History and Cultural Significance – September 16, 2017
Trier, having celebrated its 2026th birthday in 2009, has been a continuous urban settlement since 17 BC. The city is graced with numerous Roman ruins, including baths, and buildings from the Western Roman Empire, such as various churches and the iconic Porta Nigra. We visited Trier Cathedral, also known as Dom St. Peter, built by Constantine. Interestingly, St. Peter’s image appears on every manhole cover in the town. The cathedral houses important relics, including the Holy Robe and a nail purportedly from the crucifixion, among other treasures. The Holy Robe was brought back from Jerusalem by St. Helena, Constantine’s mother.
Unfortunately, our visit to see the robe was cut short as our guide hurried us out of the cathedral. We continued our tour through the market square, where we learned of a widow’s bequest to construct a market church with a tower taller than that of the cathedral. We also saw crucifixes and roosters atop churches, unlike in Heidelberg where such symbols denote Catholic and Protestant churches respectively.
It’s worth mentioning that Karl Marx was born in Trier and briefly resided in an apartment opposite the Porta Nigra during his student years. Today, the house of his birth serves as a museum, and is very popular with Chinese tourists.
Given the city’s rich history and cultural significance, we wished we could have spent an entire day exploring Trier. Later in the day, we sailed back on the Mosel to meet the Rhine. While Christabel attended a scarf-tying session, Albert participated in a talk on German values led by Bettina.
The Bridge at Remagen, Cologne and Castle Dinner – September 17, 2017
In the morning, we visited the Remagen Peace Museum, a depository of writings, photographs, artworks, and more, depicting the horrors of war. Housed on the banks of the Rhine within the remains of the Ludendorff bridge towers, the museum stands as a reminder of the bridge’s role in facilitating troop and logistics movements across the river during World War I, only to be destroyed by U.S. soldiers in World War II.
From Remagen, we sailed to Cologne to visit the Cologne Cathedral. Today, was World Children’s Day, so there was a big festival going on. It began to rain as we walked towards the cathedral. On the way, we stopped to admire the remnants of Roman ruins. Cologne Cathedral is enormous. The stained glass windows are exquisite. The cathedral has a beautiful gold reliquary containing the bones of the three kings.
In the evening, we drove to Castle Satzvey, a medieval water castle dating back to the 13th century. Welcomed by Countess Beissel von Gymnich, an American hailing from Washington, D.C., we had a marvelous dinner in what once served as the stables. The menu featured a small cup of soup, pretzel pastry with salted French butter, grilled fish with avocado salsa and a forest herb salad, tournedos of beef with vegetable, and mascarpone tart with sour cream and berries. Adding to the ambiance, three women played medieval musical instruments and sang songs presumably from the same time period.
In and around Nijmegen – September 18, 2017
It was a grey, rainy day in the Netherlands. We visited De Hoge Veluwe National Park to drop off a group of cyclists, then headed to the Kroller-Muller Museum for a private tour. The museum has the largest collection of Van Gogh paintings and drawings outside of Amsterdam’s Van Gogh Museum. Thanks to Helene Muller’s efforts, the museum also houses a collection of cubist, pointillist, and other modern art, which survived World War II.
In the afternoon, we briefly went into town, looking for a pharmacy for cold remedies. Luckily, we found one, and the recommended cough drops, Broncho Stop, proved to be a lifesaver. In the evening, we had a special dinner of smoked barbarie duck, veal consommé, sautéed sea scallops with saffron sauce and lime risotto, chateaubriand or lobster thermidor, and passion fruit gateau with black berry coulis, with entertainment provided by the crew.
A Day in Amsterdam – September 19, 2017
Today we went on a cruise along the 17th century canals on the Amstel before visiting the Rijksmuseum. The last time we visited, the museum had just reopened after a long restoration project. Our guide spent a lot of time explaining some of the works of Vermeer and Rembrandt. After the tour, we went back to the ship.
After dinner, we had a wonderful concert provided by La Strada. The trio consisted of two violinists and a guitarist. We enjoyed the concert immensely, particularly the fact that the trio travelled all the way from Belgium just to play for us. We had heard them play before, when we cruised with AmaWaterways on their Holland Tulip Tour.
Vaarwel to Amsterdam – September 20, 2017
We left at 5:30 AM for Schiphol Airport and home.
