DANUBE RIVER CRUISE: BUDAPEST TO THE BLACK SEA – JUNE 2014

When we started traveling in 2010, we used to post our travel diary with pictures on a commercial website. Unfortunately, we lost all the posted content as this website shut down without notice, leaving us scrambling to come up with a more permanent alternative.

Now that we have our own travel website, we are attempting to recreate some of the lost blogs based on notes, itineraries, Wikipedia, and good old-fashioned memory. This is one such recreation. It’s a labor of love, piecing together the adventures that shaped our lives and sharing them with you once again.

In this recreated blog, you’ll find a narrative along with pictures of our cruise along the Danube River from Budapest to Bucharest. From the majestic Parliament Building in Budapest to the mix of neoclassical and modernist architecture of Bucharest, each stop on our itinerary offered a unique glimpse into the heart of Eastern Europe.

Train to Budapest – June 19, 2014

After spending a couple of days in Vienna, we took a train to Budapest, arriving at Keleti Train Station, located very close to Budapest’s city center. This marked the beginning of our 12-day adventure exploring Eastern European countries along the Danube River.

Day Trip to Herend Porcelain Factory and Lake Balaton – June 20, 2014

Soon after breakfast, we went on a day trip to the Herend porcelain factory and Lake Balaton, located on the outskirts of Budapest. At Herend, we embarked on a guided tour of the factory, where we witnessed the intricate production process of their famous porcelain. The craftsmanship and attention to detail were truly impressive.

After the tour, we enjoyed a cup of coffee in an elegant Herend cup, which added a touch of sophistication to the experience. Following our coffee break, we visited the factory’s shop, where we couldn’t resist purchasing a couple of exquisite porcelain pieces to mark our visit.

Our next stop was Lake Balaton, the largest freshwater lake in Central Europe. We walked along the shore, taking in the spectacular views. After lunch at a nearby restaurant, we trekked to visit Tihany Abbey, a Benedictine monastery established in 1055 by King Andrew I of Hungary. The abbey is dedicated to the Holy Virgin and Saint Bishop Aignan of Orleans.

We then returned to Budapest just in time for the welcome dinner at the Hungarian Academy of Sciences, where we met some of our fellow travelers. The dinner was fabulous, and the dining room was very elegant.

Exploring Pest – June 21, 2014

Today, we enjoyed an in-depth look at Hungarian history as we visited Pest. We began our exploration with a visit to St. Stephen’s Basilica, an architectural marvel and one of the most important religious buildings in Hungary. Completed in 1905, the basilica is dedicated to St. Stephen, the first King of Hungary, whose mummified hand is housed as a sacred relic.

Following the basilica, we embarked on a city sightseeing tour. Our first stop was Heroes’ Square, a monumental site that commemorates the country’s greatest leaders and historical figures. Next, we strolled through the City Park and continued our tour along the elegant, tree-lined Andrassy Avenue, known for its beautiful 19th-century mansions and upscale shops.

The iconic Parliament building, a masterpiece of Gothic Revival architecture, was another highlight of our tour. Our final destination was the Covered Market Hall, a vibrant hub of local culture and commerce. To our delight, an Indian market fair was in progress at the Covered Market Hall with stalls displaying handicrafts, textiles, and jewelry.

Later in the afternoon, we took a leisurely stroll around our hotel and stumbled upon a lively event. To our delight, we discovered it was an annual song and dance competition. We were told that this competition is a cherished tradition, drawing talented artists from various regions to showcase their skills. Also, this evening the museums were celebrating a cultural event called Night of Museums with all-night hours and special programs.

Exploring Buda – June 22, 2014

Today, we embarked on a guided walking tour of Fisherman’s Bastion, a stunning neo-Gothic and neo-Romanesque terrace in Budapest offering panoramic views of the Danube and the city’s skyline. Following this, we visited the historic “Hospital in the Rock,” a museum that vividly depicts its remarkable history as a wartime emergency hospital and nuclear bunker.

Next, we drove to the suburb of Buda, where we visited the former home of the renowned composer Béla Bartók. This visit was a unique highlight, as we were treated to an intimate piano recital by an exceptionally talented young pianist 16 or 17 years old from a distinguished musical family.

Later in the day, we boarded our riverboat, our home for the next several days. The evening began with the Captain’s welcome reception, followed by a delightful dinner. As night fell, we departed Budapest for the next leg of our itinerary.

Paprika to Fine Wines – June 23, 2014

This morning, we began our day with a visit to the Paprika Museum in Kalocsa, where we delved into the rich history of paprika production in Hungary. The exhibits provided fascinating insights into how this spice has been cultivated and used in Hungarian cuisine over the centuries.

Next, we visited the library in the Bishop’s Palace, reputed to be one of the ten finest libraries in Europe. We marveled at the intricate woodwork, ornate ceilings, and the vast collection of rare books and manuscripts.

After lunch on the riverboat, we continued our journey to the charming town of Hajos. Here, we visited a local winery renowned for its wines. The highlight of the visit was the wine tasting session, where we sampled a variety of the winery’s offerings.

Upon return to the riverboat, we sailed toward Croatia.

A Day of Discovery:  Vukovar’s Resilience to Novi Sad’s Charm – June 24, 2014

After breakfast and an onboard lecture by a local expert on the history of this war-torn country, we docked in the Baroque city of Vukovar, Croatia.

Once showcasing opulent 18th-century mansions, Vukovar now symbolizes the ravaging effects of the 1990s war as it rebuilds. We began with a tour of the city, witnessing firsthand the blend of historical elegance and the scars of conflict. Our visit included a stop at the home of a Vukovar family who had returned to resume their lives after the war. The family graciously shared their insights and experiences, offering a personal perspective on the resilience and determination required to rebuild their lives and community. After enjoying some homemade goodies and refreshments, and visiting their kitchen garden and few farm animals, we reboarded our riverboat for lunch and cruised to Novi Sad, Serbia.

Upon arrival in Novi Sad in the evening, we were treated to a short guided walking tour of the city, exploring its charming streets and historic landmarks.

Belgrade: Historic Landmarks & Royal Encounters – June 25, 2014

We woke up this morning in Belgrade, the cosmopolitan capital of modern Serbia. After a lecture on the country by a local expert, we departed for a guided tour of Belgrade, beginning with the bustling Slavija Square, the city’s main hub. Other notable highlights of our sightseeing tour included the Parliament City Hall, Republic Square, the National Theater, the National Museum of Serbia, and Tito’s memorial.

Next, we were treated to an exclusive visit to the Royal Palace of Dedinje. Here, we toured the opulent interior of the palace, marveling at its exquisite architecture and historical significance, and the chapel.  One particularly memorable spot was the chair where Tito used to sit to watch his favorite Western movies, offering a unique glimpse into the personal life of the former leader. The highlight of our visit was an audience with Crown Prince Alexander and Crown Princess Katherine, and their young grandson who welcomed us and shared fascinating stories about the palace’s history and their efforts in various humanitarian initiatives.

After lunch on board, we visited the Kalemegdan Fortress, overlooking the Sava and Danube rivers. Having witnessed the rise and fall of various empires, it now serves as a historical monument and park.

A Relaxing Day Along the Danube – June 26, 2014

Today, we enjoyed a relaxing day cruising the Danube River through the scenic heartland of Eastern Europe. As we cruised along the Romanian border with Serbia, we entered the Kazan Narrows, one of the most spectacular and visually stunning stretches of the Danube.

Continuing our journey along the Bulgarian and Serbian border, we encountered the massive monument of the 2nd-century Dacian King, Decebalus. This impressive sculpture, completed in 2004, stands as Europe’s tallest rock sculpture, majestically carved into the riverbank on the Romanian side. The monument honors Decebalus, the last king of Dacia, who valiantly fought to preserve the independence of his country, now known as Romania.

A Visit to the Rock Churches of Ivanovo – June 27, 2014

We spent the morning leisurely cruising through the scenic countryside of Bulgaria, soaking in the lush landscapes and picturesque views.

Upon our arrival in the city of Ruse, a charming port city on the banks of the Danube River, we departed by coach to visit the celebrated Rock Churches of Ivanovo, a UNESCO World Heritage site. These extraordinary churches, carved into the steep cliffside caves, are part of a monastic complex that dates back to the 12th century and are renowned for their well-preserved frescoes that depict vivid biblical scenes

Exploring Constanta and Mamaia – June 28, 2014

Upon our arrival in Cernavoda, Romania, early this morning, we boarded a coach for an exciting day of exploration. Our first destination was the seaside city of Constanta, renowned for its rich collection of Greek and Roman antiquities. The city’s historic charm and ancient relics provided a fascinating glimpse into its storied past.

Next, we continued our journey to the seaside resort of Mamaia, where we enjoyed a delightful lunch while taking in the stunning coastal views of the Black Sea.

In the afternoon, we made our way back to Cernavoda and reboarded our riverboat. The day culminated in a memorable evening featuring the Captain’s farewell reception and dinner.

Discovering Bucharest – June 29, 2014

Upon disembarking our riverboat in Cernavoda, we traveled by motorcoach through the picturesque Romanian countryside to Bucharest, Romania’s vibrant capital and largest city.

Upon reaching Bucharest, we went on a guided sightseeing tour that highlighted the city’s rich history and architectural splendor. Our tour included notable landmarks such as the Triumphal Arch, reminiscent of Paris’s Arc de Triomphe, and Revolution Square, a site of significant historical events.

Midday, we stopped for a sumptuous lunch at a renowned local restaurant called Caru’ cu Bere, or “The Beer Cart”, where we indulged in traditional Romanian cuisine, mostly meat and lots of it too! Being designated as a historical monument, the restaurant has retained its historical charm of stained-glass windows, wooden furniture and Victorian style chandeliers.

In the afternoon, we visited the monumental People’s Palace, also known as the Palace of the Parliament. It stands as the second largest administrative building in the world, surpassed only by the Pentagon. Constructed during the regime of Nicolae Ceaușescu, the palace is an embodiment of grandiose ambition, featuring over 1,100 rooms, including opulent halls and lavish chambers. Its sheer size and intricate detailing make it a symbol of both the excesses of Ceaușescu’s dictatorship and the architectural skill of the era.

Dracula’s Castle and Farewell Dinner – June 30, 2014

Today, we had the option of a full-day excursion to visit either Bran Castle in the historic region of Transylvania or Snagov Island, the reputed burial place of Vlad Tepes (also known as Vlad the Impaler, or Dracula). We chose the day trip to Bran Castle, a decision driven by our curiosity about its legendary association with Dracula.

Our journey began with what seemed like an interminable bus ride, but the scenic sections of the Romanian countryside provided a beautiful distraction.

Upon arrival at Bran Castle, we embarked on a self-guided tour of its storied interior. The castle’s Gothic architecture and medieval charm were captivating, with narrow passageways, secret staircases, and furnished rooms that offered a glimpse into its rich history. Also unforgettable were the strong winds that buffeted the castle while we were there.

After our tour, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at a local restaurant, enjoying traditional Romanian dishes. The afternoon provided some free time to explore the surrounding area and shop for souvenirs.

In the evening, back in Bucharest, we returned to the People’s Palace for an exclusive after-hours visit. The quiet of the evening allowed us to fully appreciate the grandeur and scale of this massive building. Our day concluded with a farewell dinner, featuring good food, great company and a performance by a four-woman ensemble.

Goodbye Bucharest – July 1, 2014

We said goodbye to Bucharest and flew home.

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